SkidPad

I replaced both engine mounts on my MY2000 AP1 this week.
DIY Guys have a really good YouTube of the procedure.
Some comments from my experience:
- after removing the lower 2 nuts and the 4 bracket bolts, the engine did have to be jacked up to remove the bracket and mount assembly
- I found that jacking it up until the lower studs on the mount were just flush with the bottom of the sub-frame bracket was just enough to remove and install the bracket and mount assembly.
- an air ratchet works wonders for removing and installing the 4 bracket bolts ....
Other than that, the replacement was a piece of cake....

Luxs2k

agree, @Soviet has been posting excellent videos

RolanTHUNDER

Yeah his videos are great and very helpful. I just don't have air tools...
Considering running Spoon mounts in the future but I heard NVH is too apparent...
I run an ETD now and that actually makes the OEM mounts feel new but with the addition of a "third engine mount" that's adjustable. Great feel when set correctly (track setting is what I prefer).

ShellKace

Where did you order your Oem mounts from? can you provide the part number? also i was looking at some on majestic honda but cant tell. if they send one mount or a pair for 186$$

engifineer

That is one mount. Majestic is where I got mine. Other dealerships wanted even more for them.

They are easy to do as mentioned. And yes, you will need to jack up the engine for sure (you have to support it with a jack, but you will want to raise it slighly to help getting the mounts out and back in).

Nate Tempest

FWIW I just did this on my AP2 with aftermarket header. I spent way too long struggling to try and do the passenger side without removing the last bolt on the bracket that's blocked by the header. At least in my car, it's not possible. I could aaaalmost get the new mount into the car with the bracket still hanging from the one bolt, but needed another 1/4" or so, and couldn't get the engine up any higher. Finally relented and loosened off the 7 bolts holding the header to the motor, and then it was a piece of cake, relatively speaking. (Did need to use a jack handle to extend a box-end wrench to get some of those header bolts off though.) Didn't completely remove the header - just loosened it at the top enough to shift it out of the way and get the passenger side bracket off.

Slowcrash_101

What's the big deal about OEM mounts? The NVH of solid mounts is perfectly reasonable.

Anyone with spoon mounts ain't complaining.

engifineer

Spoon is more tolerable than some. Lots of people complain about the NVH of solid mounts. Even people that like them admit they are harsh. Less so with Spoon but some complain on those as well. "Perfectly reasonable" is your opinion, others have differing opinions.

hatsubai

I got my OEM Honda motor mounts for $261 shipped. I'm not entirely sure why I would spend $500+ more on Spoon mounts when they force you to buy the trans mounts/bracket with their kit, which almost never fail, and it still won't be as smooth as OEM. Seems like a waste of money tbh. Maybe I'll revisit this if I ever put on another 100k+ miles on my car and these new mounts fail, but changes are the car will be sold by then.

Live Fast

As long as you stick to RUBBER mounts you should be fine OEM ≥ Spoon > Hardrace ≥ Megan > eBay Rubber > Poly
The NVH doesn't get too noticable down the list. I raise my car occasionally by the differential and for my subframe collars or some other jobs I have lifted the engine+trans as well which cause the Poly to deform more.

I went with OEMs and installed a Ingalls ETD which seems to do the trick. My shifter doesn't move around and it keeps the NVH down while also not allowing the engine to move as much while being dampened by the fluid fill mounts. In theory the life is extended of these mounts but being 18 years and 90k miles on the old ones I think these should be fine for about that long too.

One again thank @Soviet (Also I'm the guy you got tires from in SC)