Saki GT

Be careful - you don't want to turn them too much or the hood will rub on the CF plate - you want them just low enough to get the hood to lock properly.

GT_NFR

I'm trying to understand the installation but do you remove the black metal piece that has the rubber seal attached to it?

Saki GT

Yes, the cooling lip replaces that metal lip.

mattfeet

"Most likely this OP used the s2ki albums to post pics. He is now a guest. and may not be on the forum any longer.....I do not know of a way to repost the pics. Someone else may."

"Looks as if these pics are posted externally - should have checked that before asking.
My fault.

So there is no way of retrieving them unless someone PM/Emails the OP."

This poster has been absent for awhile now. Best bet is to have someone re-do the DIY.

-Matt

Bob A (SD)

Some additional comments: If you look carefully you'll see a couple of small felt self-adhesive dots which I placed to obviate contact wear. You don't drop the hood! You lower it until it sits and then push down to latch everything. There is no real resistance to the latching but this procedure is insurance against damaging the AUT.

The compartment reflects the following:
-- Sprint competition air filter
-- DIY "gutted" and insulated air box
-- DIY passenger side fenderwell plumbed intake to air box
-- AUT Design cooling plate (sebring silver paint over carbon fiber by ImportTuningGarage)
-- DIY modified radmat under AUT intake horn
-- Greddy Type N 1.3kg/cm3 high pressure radiator cap
-- Engine bay cowl seal removed
-- Greddy oil catch tank
-- Hella twin Supertone #85115 horns (375Hz & 500Hz)
-- Swann battery disconnector
-- Custom aluminum billet oil cap
-- APC red billet battery tie down
-- Vision Motorworks red billet VTEC solenoid cover
-- Polished aluminum bar shock tower brace
-- Password: JDM brake & clutch fluid reservoir tank covers





I've noticed a reduction in engine intake "growl" with the AUT in place but no change in performance. BTW mine still retains the stock deflector / OEM plate. See my earlier post of Oct 19, 2007 in this thread about "why."


--Bob

Saki GT

NEW DIY: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=S...0#entry13132169

work in progress, but it has pics.

Bob A (SD)

Saki GT,

I know there will be folks who appreciate what you're doing in recreating the illustrated DIY AUT installation guide.

One issue that you haven't addressed is the removal of the stock deflector / OEM plate which many advocate although I certainly don't. Have you come to also believe that its removal is both unnecessary and perhaps a detriment?

--Bob

Saki GT

Not as many people advocate removing that piece as you'd think, and logically, it makes no sense. Someone, back in the day, made a decision to remove it, and it became doctrine because everyone assumed thats the way to do it. People are free to strip as many parts off their cars as they see fit, but removing the stock piece makes no sense when you think about it and look at how air is controlled as it comes into the car. You might as well remove the hood baffle too, since it probably holds heat in, etc...

First, air gets to the air box fine with the stock piece in, and the AUT plate is not acting as a second filter, its capping the air thats already getting by the stock piece.

Second, the stock piece keeps positive pressure on the front of the radiator and drives air up to the air box, so removing it lessens that ram effect.

Third, there's no proof removing the stock piece does anything beneficial.

Forth, KISS - keep it simple, stupid. Why go through a bunch more work when there's no proof of benefit and simply adding the cooling plate accomplishes what you want? Plus, its easy to go back to stock if you need/want to.

Bob A (SD)

Saki GT,

Very very well put and of course we';re in complete agreement!

Best!

--Bob

Saki GT

Thanks,