Bob A (SD)

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Eh? I think you may have misread my posts. I never bought the TN2P plate. Instead I fabricated out of silvered bubble insulation wrap the mini-radmat you see in the picture of my engine bay. Frankly I think the aluminum TN2P plate would have been my best choice but the hassles and prohibitive costs getting one from Japan ruled it out. Had I bought one, yes, I would have put rubber bumpers on the upright slanted edges.
The AUT plate I did order is showing a scheduled delivery of tomorrow. (Update: #$%^& thing has been delayed beyond the guarenteed delivery timeframe...won't see it until next Monday. Just hope the reason for the delays isn't damage )

--Bob

Bob A (SD)

Well it finally arrived safe and sound. Here it is installed:

There is a section of aluminum foil bubble wrap installed over the radiator within the intake horn area of the AUT. It also serves to block most of the access hole for the passenger side radiator bracket. The stock airguide remains in place.

I haven't had much time on the road with it today so to comment about felt performance would be premature. I will say that this puppy is super QUIET though. I don't hear the raspy growl of the intake under heavy load any more with the AUT installed.... interesting and unexpected.

--Bob

Bob A (SD)

With the change in weather here I put the car up for the winter today. So evaluation of the retention of the stock air guide will have to wait for Spring. That said, other than the quiet, I noted no substantive performance differences thus far.

HighwayStar

i need this DIY is there anyway to that the pic working again

NVMY4N

have you read any of the above posts at all?

pjkwong

Any pic of this step?

7) This is probably the hardest part. You will need to duck your head under neath the weather stripping and locate the four pop-in rivets that are holding the rest of the OEM plate in place. This picture was taken upside down to show the rivet. Get a looong flat head screw driver in there to pop them out.

One trick is to push the OEM plastic piece in so you have room to stick your arms in there. It hurts...but it's the easiest way to maneuver the flat head screw driver.

uncleben

I just installed my AUT plate... looks amazing. Now, hmm, if I could only get the hood to shut. I've used grease in about 6-7 places to make sure the hood is not hitting the plate anywhere so I don't think that's the problem, plus it feels nice and snug against the chassis. But no matter how I drop it, the hood just catches the latch hook and bounces, it's painful to watch. At least it's not damaging the CF. So my only guess is the bottom latch placement... I recall the latch assembly having quite a bit of play when you pull the bolts out (the holes are more like slots). Would "raising" the latch assembly a couple cm's help? I'd hate to take it all apart again to find out that doesn't make any difference and I'm done working on it for the night. It was a real PITA to get the weather stripping lined up and the passenger side radiator mount in there.

Other than that, it was a pretty straight-forward quick install.

Saki GT

Have you tried screwing down the rubber stops a bit yet?

agent

I had the same problem. The only problem spot was a single bolt near the latch on the hood. It didn't show at first, but in a couple of months i started to see dicolouration on the bolt, and a small indent in the clear coat of the plate itself. so what i did is just sanded down this tiny spot on the cooling plate. About a millimeter or so did the trick, and you win't notice it, since the clear coat there is quite thick.

uncleben

You've got to be kidding me! That did it! I just turned the rubber stoppers about once around (maybe not even that much) by hand and it shut like a charm. Would have never guessed. Thanks!!

The weather has been nasty so I haven't driven the car yet, but I will report back my impressions later.