DIY: Cold Air Induction installation
09-18-2007, 05:02 PM
#43
Registered User
Looks as if these pics are posted externally - should have checked that before asking.
My fault.
So there is no way of retrieving them unless someone PM/Emails the OP.
My fault.
So there is no way of retrieving them unless someone PM/Emails the OP.
10-19-2007, 06:14 PM
#46
Registered User
We can't help people stop visiting the site and/or remove pics from an external site.
I understand that this would have been helpful -
So anyone that's about to install this - try and follow the directions given by the Company (if any) and use the written instructions the best you can.......and while your at it -
Take Pics
Make Notes
Even a video
The OP had to be a pioneer. So follow in his foot steps and contribute to the site.
We'll edit this accordingly once you have it finished and uploaded to the site.
Good Luck.
Happy Modding
I understand that this would have been helpful -
So anyone that's about to install this - try and follow the directions given by the Company (if any) and use the written instructions the best you can.......and while your at it -
Take Pics
Make Notes
Even a video
The OP had to be a pioneer. So follow in his foot steps and contribute to the site.
We'll edit this accordingly once you have it finished and uploaded to the site.
Good Luck.
Happy Modding
10-19-2007, 08:04 PM
#47
Addendum: After doing extensive research here on S2KI I've come to the conclusion that removal of the OEM airguide may not be a good thing.
Why? The purpose of the OEM airguide is to both direct sufficient cold air through the radiator as well as develop a pressure differential for engine air intake. There have been numerous posts from folks like xviper, Luis, dolebludger, et all providing opinions on the merits of removal or retention but perhaps the most insightful was a post by trinis2001 in this thread (https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116347) where he pointed out "that the stock bonnet actually has a molding that resembles the contour of the AUT plate airguide - the part that connects to the intake horn? Only thing is, the bonnet molding allows a far greater volume of air into the airbox that the AUT plate. I am sure if the the bonnet was see through we would see a very deliberate air guide to the horn. I think the AUT plate is a constricted version of what was there before."
After initially reading that post I went out and inspected my car. Sure enough the top inside of the hood does in fact seal against the forward engine compartment much like the AUT plate does. Now my present setup includes a TN2P style mini-radmat plus a gutted OEM airbox with a Sprint air filter, the resonator section removed, and the installation of a 3" intake from the passenger side front wheel well. A Coastal Metals air director is currently used with the stock OEM airguide retained. I also concluded that trinis2001 had a point when he said "The air passage between the Aut plate and the chassis is so small, there is no way removing the rad plate is going to let more air into the air box. The slots would be all the passage can handle." From my knothole any marginal reduction in the intake area would be more than compensated for by the insulating effect of the AUT plate over the stock configuration in keeping intake air unmixed with hotter engine compartment air.... colder air is definitely better for combustion and power. The pressure differential would be the prime factor and not the airway size in the actual volume/velocity of air drawn into the airbox from both the normal front over radiator feed as well as the passenger side wheel well. Keeping the stock airguide will help ensure that especially as seeing that the AUT design so closely resembles the "channel" Honda provided with the way the hood mates to the forward engine compartment. Removing it with or without the AUT would seem to defeat what Honda designed in.
As an aside I bought the AUT plate simply to improve the engine compartment look as my raw radmat certainly reflects a bailing wire and bubble gum appearance despite the functionality provided. I would have considered the TN2P v.2 plate but the last time I checked (which has been several years ago) the cost of shipping was almost the same as the cost of the unit which was something shy of 9,000 Yen.
I'm saving a few sheckles by getting a sebring silver painted AUT plate which originally had a esthetic carbon fiber weave flaw.
At any rate that's the plan of action. I hope I still have enough warm days left before winter storage is necessary to wring things out and see if the thinking here is born out
If I detect a fall off in performance from what I've been experiencing these past few years with what you see illustrated above, I'll reconsider things and remove the stock OEM airguide.
--Bob
Mods/accessories:
-- Classic Carrier black luggage rack w/leather straps
-- Sprint air filter in DIY "gutted" air box
-- DIY plumbing passenger side of stock airbox to fenderwell
-- DIY modified radmat
-- MUZ Whiteline front swaybar
-- MUZ JDM convex drivers side mirror
-- Greddy Type N 1.3kg/cm3 high pressure radiator cap
-- Hella twin Supertone #85115 horns
-- VooDoo shift knob
-- Swann battery disconnector
-- Aluminum billet oil cap
-- Greddy "new design" oil catch tank
-- Rick's S Steering wheel emblem
-- Rick's front license bracket
-- MilitaryBest Retired Navy license frame
-- Personalized license plates "BALD 1"
-- Vinyl "S2000" on windblocker screen
-- AUS cooling plate (sebring silver paint over carbon fiber)
-- Coastal Metal lip protector
-- Coastal Metal front grill
-- Dynashield headlight lens protectors
-- Modifry glove box organizer
-- Softbond Noah car cover w/cable and lock
-- OEM seat satchel
-- OEM touch up paint color code NH552MAH
-- Chip-Mender touch up paint pen
-- Remote-Tote
-- Seatbelt pads
-- Alwyn pittard's driving gloves
Why? The purpose of the OEM airguide is to both direct sufficient cold air through the radiator as well as develop a pressure differential for engine air intake. There have been numerous posts from folks like xviper, Luis, dolebludger, et all providing opinions on the merits of removal or retention but perhaps the most insightful was a post by trinis2001 in this thread (https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116347) where he pointed out "that the stock bonnet actually has a molding that resembles the contour of the AUT plate airguide - the part that connects to the intake horn? Only thing is, the bonnet molding allows a far greater volume of air into the airbox that the AUT plate. I am sure if the the bonnet was see through we would see a very deliberate air guide to the horn. I think the AUT plate is a constricted version of what was there before."
After initially reading that post I went out and inspected my car. Sure enough the top inside of the hood does in fact seal against the forward engine compartment much like the AUT plate does. Now my present setup includes a TN2P style mini-radmat plus a gutted OEM airbox with a Sprint air filter, the resonator section removed, and the installation of a 3" intake from the passenger side front wheel well. A Coastal Metals air director is currently used with the stock OEM airguide retained. I also concluded that trinis2001 had a point when he said "The air passage between the Aut plate and the chassis is so small, there is no way removing the rad plate is going to let more air into the air box. The slots would be all the passage can handle." From my knothole any marginal reduction in the intake area would be more than compensated for by the insulating effect of the AUT plate over the stock configuration in keeping intake air unmixed with hotter engine compartment air.... colder air is definitely better for combustion and power. The pressure differential would be the prime factor and not the airway size in the actual volume/velocity of air drawn into the airbox from both the normal front over radiator feed as well as the passenger side wheel well. Keeping the stock airguide will help ensure that especially as seeing that the AUT design so closely resembles the "channel" Honda provided with the way the hood mates to the forward engine compartment. Removing it with or without the AUT would seem to defeat what Honda designed in.
As an aside I bought the AUT plate simply to improve the engine compartment look as my raw radmat certainly reflects a bailing wire and bubble gum appearance despite the functionality provided. I would have considered the TN2P v.2 plate but the last time I checked (which has been several years ago) the cost of shipping was almost the same as the cost of the unit which was something shy of 9,000 Yen.
I'm saving a few sheckles by getting a sebring silver painted AUT plate which originally had a esthetic carbon fiber weave flaw.
At any rate that's the plan of action. I hope I still have enough warm days left before winter storage is necessary to wring things out and see if the thinking here is born out
If I detect a fall off in performance from what I've been experiencing these past few years with what you see illustrated above, I'll reconsider things and remove the stock OEM airguide.--Bob
Mods/accessories:
-- Classic Carrier black luggage rack w/leather straps
-- Sprint air filter in DIY "gutted" air box
-- DIY plumbing passenger side of stock airbox to fenderwell
-- DIY modified radmat
-- MUZ Whiteline front swaybar
-- MUZ JDM convex drivers side mirror
-- Greddy Type N 1.3kg/cm3 high pressure radiator cap
-- Hella twin Supertone #85115 horns
-- VooDoo shift knob
-- Swann battery disconnector
-- Aluminum billet oil cap
-- Greddy "new design" oil catch tank
-- Rick's S Steering wheel emblem
-- Rick's front license bracket
-- MilitaryBest Retired Navy license frame
-- Personalized license plates "BALD 1"
-- Vinyl "S2000" on windblocker screen
-- AUS cooling plate (sebring silver paint over carbon fiber)
-- Coastal Metal lip protector
-- Coastal Metal front grill
-- Dynashield headlight lens protectors
-- Modifry glove box organizer
-- Softbond Noah car cover w/cable and lock
-- OEM seat satchel
-- OEM touch up paint color code NH552MAH
-- Chip-Mender touch up paint pen
-- Remote-Tote
-- Seatbelt pads
-- Alwyn pittard's driving gloves
10-23-2007, 08:59 PM
#48
Moderator
You kow I read throught this thread - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116347
And there are two big problems I saw. One, the baffle does nothing to prevent water from getting into the air box, the lid has an elbow that directs everything over the baffle. Eight pages over three years and no one caught that.
Second, you don't want positive relative pressure inside the airbox, you want negative. You want high pressure in front of the box, so it rushes into the box. Low pressure in the air box means it will rush into the intake and compact more - denser air and more power.
A cooling plate "caps" the air that normally is directed up and over the engine, but Honda has minimal openings for this, and if you look at the stock rad plate and the airbox shape behind the radiator, its obvious Honda is diverting most air down from the engine bay, probably mainly to reduce wind resistance.
A cooling plate caps what little air is travelling over the engine and creates a high pressure zone where air will have to travel either back down or into the airbox. It creates very high pressure plus it keeps air from coming over the engine and into the intake. Without it, air would travel over the engine and some would go into the intake, but the air pressure is much lower.
And there are two big problems I saw. One, the baffle does nothing to prevent water from getting into the air box, the lid has an elbow that directs everything over the baffle. Eight pages over three years and no one caught that.
Second, you don't want positive relative pressure inside the airbox, you want negative. You want high pressure in front of the box, so it rushes into the box. Low pressure in the air box means it will rush into the intake and compact more - denser air and more power.
A cooling plate "caps" the air that normally is directed up and over the engine, but Honda has minimal openings for this, and if you look at the stock rad plate and the airbox shape behind the radiator, its obvious Honda is diverting most air down from the engine bay, probably mainly to reduce wind resistance.
A cooling plate caps what little air is travelling over the engine and creates a high pressure zone where air will have to travel either back down or into the airbox. It creates very high pressure plus it keeps air from coming over the engine and into the intake. Without it, air would travel over the engine and some would go into the intake, but the air pressure is much lower.
10-24-2007, 01:53 PM
#49
Saki GT wrote:
You know I read throught this thread - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116347
And there are two big problems I saw. One, the baffle does nothing to prevent water from getting into the air box, the lid has an elbow that directs everything over the baffle. Eight pages over three years and no one caught that.
The thread you remarked on was in the UK owners area. There were several others way back when in the main forum areas which did include comments about water concerns and the stock airbox design. The box has a drain hole by the way and when gutted has not, in both my case and from the comments of others with this mod, been conducive to any water issues at all.
Saki GT wrote:
A cooling plate caps what little air is travelling over the engine and creates a high pressure zone where air will have to travel either back down or into the airbox. It creates very high pressure plus it keeps air from coming over the engine and into the intake. Without it, air would travel over the engine and some would go into the intake, but the air pressure is much lower.
Concur! That's what I was alluding to in my post above and why I believe it to be a mistake to remove the stock airguide with an AUT installation. Again, being redundant, the AUT design simply replicates the hood interior profile when closed. And Honda designed the stock OEM airguide to work with that hood configuration. Given all this, unless you adamantly believe Honda's design is significantly flawed, removal of the airguide with the installation of the AUT plate would constitute a step backwards. As you so well describe it would diminish the pressure differential making the air feed to the airbox less efficient than stock.
My AUT should be here tomorrow.
You know I read throught this thread - https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=116347
And there are two big problems I saw. One, the baffle does nothing to prevent water from getting into the air box, the lid has an elbow that directs everything over the baffle. Eight pages over three years and no one caught that.
The thread you remarked on was in the UK owners area. There were several others way back when in the main forum areas which did include comments about water concerns and the stock airbox design. The box has a drain hole by the way and when gutted has not, in both my case and from the comments of others with this mod, been conducive to any water issues at all.
Saki GT wrote:
A cooling plate caps what little air is travelling over the engine and creates a high pressure zone where air will have to travel either back down or into the airbox. It creates very high pressure plus it keeps air from coming over the engine and into the intake. Without it, air would travel over the engine and some would go into the intake, but the air pressure is much lower.
Concur! That's what I was alluding to in my post above and why I believe it to be a mistake to remove the stock airguide with an AUT installation. Again, being redundant, the AUT design simply replicates the hood interior profile when closed. And Honda designed the stock OEM airguide to work with that hood configuration. Given all this, unless you adamantly believe Honda's design is significantly flawed, removal of the airguide with the installation of the AUT plate would constitute a step backwards. As you so well describe it would diminish the pressure differential making the air feed to the airbox less efficient than stock.
My AUT should be here tomorrow.