Car Analogy

I was able to use my regular ratchet and the hex sockets already had. None stripped.

Trick I used is slid the driveshaft back (it will slide on cv splines) to gain clearance. Then socket would fit into bolt nice and square.

Driveshaft would creep back, but I just kept sliding it. Only needed to stay square while breaking them loose.

This trick worked for both front and rear driveshaft mounts.

B serious

Tip for pulling the trans without scratching the firewall.

After removing all the bell housing bolts, rotate the trans slightly clockwise (looking at the bell housing from the back of the car) before pulling it backwards, off the spline. Maybe 5 or 10 deg of rotation.


You'll need every single socket extension you can find in your city for removing or installing the bell housing bolts, BTW. Buy a couple of wobble extensions too. Basically, an extension setup that's longer than the trans itself.




Reverse is true for install.

9KCanuck

Success! Thanks for all the advice.


I got them all off clean with vice grips + a lower profile socket wrench and hex socket. It perhaps helped that I soaked them with PB Blaster a couple times and let that sit for a few days.

Although no matter how I contorted and aligned things, I still needed a wobble adapter -- the wrench head collides with the driveshaft preventing a straight-on connection with the socket itself. When I go to reassemble I'll perhaps get someone to pull and hold the driveshaft back for me... maybe that would give things just enough clearance, as otherwise I would have needed 3 hands to twist the socket + vice grips + hold back the driveshaft.

I'll probably return to this thread soon, as the next bit is the main attraction -- removing the transmission

B serious

An impact and the right extension setup is the way to remove driveshaft bolts without damaging them.

Unless they're corroded in place.

Kyle

I ground down a standard hex bit and used an extension on an impact to get the driveshaft bolts out. Didn't strip a single one. I feel like people turn these particular bolts into a nightmare that simply didn't need to be had they had the right tools from the get-go.

Proper research is your friend. I'd never done a clutch in my life before I did the clutch in my s2000. Simply taking the time to read up on the particular & specific nuances of the job saved me a ton of headache, and not a single part of the job was "difficult" because of that.

starchland

Service manual will tell you where and what grease to use. New hardware is advisable on the drive shaft.

Kyle

Belmetric sells bolts that make the job much easier if you ever need to do it again.

12 pt m8 coarse thread, 60 & 65mm length on ap1, grade 12. No more bs with hex sockets.

9KCanuck

Yes, I grabbed all new bolts from Honda before starting this job just in case I had to mangle any during removal.

Once I approached the problem with the right tools and method, however, they all came off just fine -- except for the first one, but only because I was impatient. Live and learn.

I have been following a YouTube tutorial on clutch replacement and am aware of all the spots to grease... but verifying with the service manual is a wise move. Good point.

9KCanuck

I have a 3/8 drive hex bit that was too long for removal. But, I do want to use this one for re-install, as my torque wrench is 3/8 drive. I'll try cutting the bit down.. it's a long socket at 2" total.

B serious

Good call. The 12pt fasteners are Class 12.9....so an extremely hard/strong bolt.

AP1 is M8x1.25 60 and 65mm

AP2 is M10x1.25. I think 60mm only (someone fact check me on this length)

With the larger thread and wrench/flange size on AP2 bolts...I wonder if the 12pt still fit and allow a tool to fit.