9KCanuck

Thanks for the reply. Sorry but I don't understand. Are you able to describe this method differently? You are referring to the hex bolts in the driveshaft, correct?
Another question... If I'm resorting to cutting these off, could I use a reciprocating saw? I have one of those with some metal blades but no angle grinder.

Slowcrash_101

The gear wrench xp120 slim long handle 1/4" ratchet, and a MATCO stubby 6 mm 1/4" hex socket will easily remove the prop shaft bolts with no stripping or headaches. Guaranteed, this has become one of my favorite wrenches, and if you get it you'll understand. It's like it was made to remove AP1 propshaft bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-81034-Rat-120Xp-Hndl/dp/B078Z2V4CJ

https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/AXYS6M?srsltid=AfAwrE74dJ1y0D44eIu1lP4ldq-9eaFGxxbfmjfKJ4HmdtEyF8wPtmfn1yc

This wrench should be mandatory for anyone that works on these cars, it's that good.

The slim wrench head fits perfectly between the CV joint and center section. The MATCO socket fits like a glove and bottoms out on the bolt flush.

9KCanuck

Thanks. Yes it's a stubby hex socket that I need.

9KCanuck

OK, please bear with me, as I am panicking slightly that I have started something I should not have...

I actually thought I had all the tools I would need for this job, but as it turns out, my hex socket is a tad too long as mentioned. My online options as a Canuck are somewhat limited, but Amazon.ca can get this to me by Tuesday --
I would feel better about this if someone could please say "yup, that should do the trick" or "no wtf, not THAT". It's 3/8 drive, not 3/4... otherwise it looks like it should do the trick. Plus my impact wrench is 3/8. <shrug>

The other issue is that one of them is already stripped... bloody hell. But I do have replacement OEM bolts, so whatever I have to do to take it out is fine.

Slowcrash_101

I strongly suggest you get that Matco hex socket, and the gearwrench 1/4" wrench. It fits perfectly and will make your life much easier. I had to give up my car for 3 weeks while waiting for my tailshaft housing to arrive. Being without a car is temporary, a job well done lasts much longer.


This is the closest thing, but without the slim head ratchet, you may not be able to get the hex socket flush with the bolt. The wrench is 9" long and let's you put more than enough leverage to remove the bolts. I routinely put my entire bodyweight on the wrench and it's still as good as new.

9KCanuck

Thanks. Understood.

I suppose you don't endorse the practice of a wobble adapter in this particular case... which I think would preclude the need for a slim head ratchet, if I am properly visualizing the setup.

Slowcrash_101

I tried that, it didn't work for me. The aforementioned tools were the most sure fire way I've found to date. I'm kind of clumsy and not exactly the best mechanic ever, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

starchland

clean out the hex head real good. Hit it square to the bore (proper bit length) make sure your bit is in good shape (grind it down if need be) and also vice grips can also help on the outside of the head while using the hex bit for the stubborn ones. These are all common problems everyone encounters

9KCanuck

I really appreciate the help, guys. Some tools are on order, so I'll give it another shot later in the week.

In the meantime I put in new transmission mounts so that I felt like I accomplished something.

aaronyuri

You either need something that can fit into the space and allow you to manually apply enough torque, or you need something that can fit in the space and provide the torque from a distance - impact wrench/driver. An impact driver with a 6mm bit and a long bit holder come to mind if the slim ratchet is not an option for some reason. It may be easier to borrow an impact driver rather than an impact wrench as not many people own one compared to the other (at least in the UK).

If the stripped bolt is beyond saving, then yes, you will need to grind it out. I would try to make sure you have something that can sit on an undamaged bolt snugly and undo it before trying to work on the damaged bolt any further. You can go from maybe I don't need to grind it out to I absolutely have to grind it out rather swiftly using the wrong tool.