DIY: Clutch Interlock Switch Bypass
08-06-2008, 11:13 AM
#31
LOL. What? You didnt clarify anything! Where is the bearing? Which one? Post a picure, a diagram, an animation...anything!
I guess all of us with strong pressure plates better watch out! This is hilarious.
I guess all of us with strong pressure plates better watch out! This is hilarious.
08-06-2008, 12:41 PM
#32
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This quote was taken from SpitfireS from the "Hardtopguy Clutch....AGAIN" thread in this same sub-forum. And I experienced crank-walk with HTGuy's clutch kit. See same thread mentioned above for details.. But my mechanics say that it appeared as if it was never lub'd. Jeff believes it was a combination of bad parts/improper lubrication that lead to my crank-walk. I am still running his clutch kit after installing a new block. The "thrust washers" that SpitfireS is referring to, which is what my mechanics think my crank ate thru or were never installed by Honda, is item #10 in the picture. I am still using HTGuy's clutch kit w/light flywheel in my S. If I eat thru another set of thrust washers again, then I will obviously switch to another clutch kit.
"The crankshaft is supported by 2 half thrust rings.
As shown in the picture, #10
Thats not a lot of surface area.......
Axial play of the crank should be between 0.10 - 0.35mm.
Service limit is 0.45mm.
European cars usually don't have the clutch-in-to-start switch.
We're no idiots
Nevertheless its often promoted to push the clutch during engine start, also to make it easier for a cold engine to start > no gearbox to "start" too.
Personally I don't see how a clutch dump would put more load on the crank's thrust bearings.
The load is highest when you're disengaging the clutch and goes back to zero when the clutch is engaged.
How quick that happens is not important, again IMO.
All the other situations would increase wear, especially the clutch-in-to-start.
I'm not sure the thrust bearing is "pressurized", probably not.
On second thought I agree that the trans input shaft doesn't help the crank shaft in an axial way.
The pilot bearing left a mark on the input shaft and there clearly is room between that mark and the splines, IOW no support.
Those splines aren't designed to give axial support either, having tapered ends.
So.. start your engine without pressing the clutch, use good oil
and shift fast.
That should solve it
"
"The crankshaft is supported by 2 half thrust rings.
As shown in the picture, #10
Thats not a lot of surface area.......
Axial play of the crank should be between 0.10 - 0.35mm.
Service limit is 0.45mm.
European cars usually don't have the clutch-in-to-start switch.
We're no idiots
Nevertheless its often promoted to push the clutch during engine start, also to make it easier for a cold engine to start > no gearbox to "start" too.
Personally I don't see how a clutch dump would put more load on the crank's thrust bearings.
The load is highest when you're disengaging the clutch and goes back to zero when the clutch is engaged.
How quick that happens is not important, again IMO.
All the other situations would increase wear, especially the clutch-in-to-start.
I'm not sure the thrust bearing is "pressurized", probably not.
On second thought I agree that the trans input shaft doesn't help the crank shaft in an axial way.
The pilot bearing left a mark on the input shaft and there clearly is room between that mark and the splines, IOW no support.
Those splines aren't designed to give axial support either, having tapered ends.
So.. start your engine without pressing the clutch, use good oil
and shift fast.That should solve it
"
08-06-2008, 02:21 PM
#34
Thread Starter
You could do that - but then that cool red button would be out of sight
I'll eventually install a momentary switch in parallel with the CI switch and post the install. The extra step does make you think about what you're doing and prevents a senior moment
I'll eventually install a momentary switch in parallel with the CI switch and post the install. The extra step does make you think about what you're doing and prevents a senior moment
08-06-2008, 03:06 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by slipstream444,Aug 6 2008, 04:21 PM
You could do that - but then that cool red button would be out of sight
I'll eventually install a momentary switch in parallel with the CI switch and post the install. The extra step does make you think about what you're doing and prevents a senior moment
I'll eventually install a momentary switch in parallel with the CI switch and post the install. The extra step does make you think about what you're doing and prevents a senior moment
Start procedure:
Pre-start button (clutch interlock)
Green light on
Engine start before light goes out or another pre-start press is required.
I dig it, even just for its coolness
08-06-2008, 03:09 PM
#36
Registered User
Originally Posted by slipstream444,Aug 5 2008, 11:18 PM
Most of the wear your bearings see are when there is zero to minimal oil pressure and maximum load - which is at startup.
I don't know where your 2% number came from - but engine manufacturers (who actually do the research and produce the data) have determined that closer to 70% of wear occurs at startup.
I don't know where your 2% number came from - but engine manufacturers (who actually do the research and produce the data) have determined that closer to 70% of wear occurs at startup.
08-06-2008, 03:21 PM
#37
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=MikeyCB,Aug 6 2008, 05:06 PM] This is my favorite idea, I'd like to have a button that gets pushed initially with a 3 second window in which the press the Engine Start button.
08-06-2008, 03:27 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by MikeyCB,Aug 6 2008, 03:06 PM
This is my favorite idea, I'd like to have a button that gets pushed initially with a 3 second window in which the press the Engine Start button. Even cooler would be to have a nice green LED that is on only when the 3 second window is open.
Start procedure:
Pre-start button (clutch interlock)
Green light on
Engine start before light goes out or another pre-start press is required.
I dig it, even just for its coolness
Start procedure:
Pre-start button (clutch interlock)
Green light on
Engine start before light goes out or another pre-start press is required.
I dig it, even just for its coolness
08-06-2008, 03:45 PM
#39
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by spectacle,Aug 6 2008, 11:26 AM
Despite all your "evidence" and whatnot (and believe me I read it, or at least tried to), none of this makes any sense to me.
You say I have no evidence but I really don't need much because I'm not trying to prove anything.
So post up pics of these worn bearings and walked cranks so we can all be convinced.
It's not my job (or anyone else on this forum's job) to convince you - I post information that I feel is relevant, and you have to use that blob of goo in-between your ears to figure out the rest.
Until you do, this is just another mod without a dyno to back it up.
I'll make it even easier, link us to a thread where someone walked their crank because they didnt bypass their clutch. Don't worry, I'll wait.
Wait until your heart's content.
