DIY brake Bleeding
03-31-2008, 08:49 AM
#61
I just tried yesterday on my 03, and I couldn't get gravity bleed to work either. It would drip for a few min but then stop. I had the end of the hose out of the container to watch for drops, and I watched closely for several minutes, but nothing was coming out. I ended up having to use the bored-woman-in-the-driver's-seat method.
Any suggestions on what I may have done wrong? Gravity bleeding sure sounds like the way to go but I just don't seem to have enough gravity
Any suggestions on what I may have done wrong? Gravity bleeding sure sounds like the way to go but I just don't seem to have enough gravity
The following users liked this post:
keeptrying56 (11-03-2021)
03-31-2008, 11:01 AM
#62
If you just put a loop in the drain hose so that it goes up first and then loops around and back down into the drain/collection bottle then you don't have to worry about back-feeding air into the system. Doing it with a loop also allows you to do it all by yourself and not bother someone else just to pump the pedal. It is also alot faster than the gravity feed method............as I liken it to watching grass grow. I don't know about you guys but I don't want to make it an all day affair.
Problem(s) solved!!!
-Hockey
Problem(s) solved!!!
-Hockey
05-11-2008, 10:55 PM
#63
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Intercontinental
Posts: 4,537
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great tips in here guys. Just did my first brake flush and I've got a few comments about the procedure.
- First, it took me a while to find some place that sold the right kind of tubing that would fit over the bleeder. Home Depot had it (tried several pet stores and one sold me tubing that was too small). It's 3/8" outer diameter and 1/4" inner diameter clear vinyl tubing that fits perfectly over the bleed nipple.
- Definitely place newspaper or rags around the fill reservoir and over the paint because as I was extracting the fluid, some spilled or splashed around a little bit (even with the fluid extractor). Just to be safe, safeguard that area.
- Place, and leave, the 10mm closed end wrench over the bleed nut and modulate the opening and closing of the valve. Even with the wrench and hose on, it won't distract from bleeding the fluid. This way, you don't have to fumble about to close the valve. Fewer steps. Open, close. Done.
- Some say the process was quick for them, others say it took forever. I found that by modulating the tube up and down, like a lever, it would help speed the flow. The trick is to lower the tube to get the air bubble very close to the bleeder but do not let it go back into the system. At that point, raise the tube again and watch it fill up. You'll see what I mean when you do it. Just keep doing this till you've gotten all the bubbles, contaminants and old fluid out. The fronts are really quick but the rears take longer because there's more fluid to move through the system.
- If you bought the 1 quart of ATE or other fluid, do your clutch fluid flush using the leftover fluid. There's plenty to do the brakes and the clutch. You can still use the same size hose but it won't be a snug fit so prepare to catch some of the fluid with a rag. You may want to get a slightly smaller tube, probably 7/16ths inner diameter but I was able to make do with the larger 1/4" I.D. tubing. Have an 8mm closed end wrench for the clutch bleed valve. I don't understand why they didn't just use the same size for the brakes and the clutch.
- Lastly, I ordered my brake fluid from CDOC.com (through ebay). They were very reasonable on the fluid price and packaged the containers extremely well if you need to have them shipped. Shipping was pretty quick too. I have no connection with them other than being a happy customer.
on the gravity bleed method. (and yes, it does work for AP1s too)
- First, it took me a while to find some place that sold the right kind of tubing that would fit over the bleeder. Home Depot had it (tried several pet stores and one sold me tubing that was too small). It's 3/8" outer diameter and 1/4" inner diameter clear vinyl tubing that fits perfectly over the bleed nipple.
- Definitely place newspaper or rags around the fill reservoir and over the paint because as I was extracting the fluid, some spilled or splashed around a little bit (even with the fluid extractor). Just to be safe, safeguard that area.
- Place, and leave, the 10mm closed end wrench over the bleed nut and modulate the opening and closing of the valve. Even with the wrench and hose on, it won't distract from bleeding the fluid. This way, you don't have to fumble about to close the valve. Fewer steps. Open, close. Done.
- Some say the process was quick for them, others say it took forever. I found that by modulating the tube up and down, like a lever, it would help speed the flow. The trick is to lower the tube to get the air bubble very close to the bleeder but do not let it go back into the system. At that point, raise the tube again and watch it fill up. You'll see what I mean when you do it. Just keep doing this till you've gotten all the bubbles, contaminants and old fluid out. The fronts are really quick but the rears take longer because there's more fluid to move through the system.
- If you bought the 1 quart of ATE or other fluid, do your clutch fluid flush using the leftover fluid. There's plenty to do the brakes and the clutch. You can still use the same size hose but it won't be a snug fit so prepare to catch some of the fluid with a rag. You may want to get a slightly smaller tube, probably 7/16ths inner diameter but I was able to make do with the larger 1/4" I.D. tubing. Have an 8mm closed end wrench for the clutch bleed valve. I don't understand why they didn't just use the same size for the brakes and the clutch.
- Lastly, I ordered my brake fluid from CDOC.com (through ebay). They were very reasonable on the fluid price and packaged the containers extremely well if you need to have them shipped. Shipping was pretty quick too. I have no connection with them other than being a happy customer.
on the gravity bleed method. (and yes, it does work for AP1s too)
05-12-2008, 08:15 AM
#65
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Intercontinental
Posts: 4,537
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by nearwater4me,May 12 2008, 09:07 AM
^ Thanks for the update.
I'll give it a try sometime this summer.
Which order did you use, btw?
Did you follow Billman's order?
Dan
I'll give it a try sometime this summer.
Which order did you use, btw?
Did you follow Billman's order?
Dan
first: RF, LF, LR, last: RR (counter-clockwise)
06-09-2008, 11:34 PM
#66
Not to shotgun a dead horse, but this will be my first time, I'm a bit paranoid, so I think I'm over thinking this a bit. Just for absolute clarity:
1. Empty master.
2. Bleed front right a little first. If the master is empty, and I start bleeding the front right a little, I imagine the fluid level will drop a bit into the tubing exiting from the master? If I then top it off with fresh fluid, that won't trap any air in the tubing? Or will it percolate out (I'm not sure how viscous brake fluid is)? Or am I envisioning this all wrong?
3. Follow the rest of the steps as described. leaving the master cap off the whole time, until all four corners are complete.
4. Raise the car high to maximize gravity potential, and loop the tube.
1. Empty master.
2. Bleed front right a little first. If the master is empty, and I start bleeding the front right a little, I imagine the fluid level will drop a bit into the tubing exiting from the master? If I then top it off with fresh fluid, that won't trap any air in the tubing? Or will it percolate out (I'm not sure how viscous brake fluid is)? Or am I envisioning this all wrong?
3. Follow the rest of the steps as described. leaving the master cap off the whole time, until all four corners are complete.
4. Raise the car high to maximize gravity potential, and loop the tube.
06-10-2008, 01:50 AM
#67
Registered User
when they say bleed it a little, they're just being anal about trying to get as much fluid out as possible. personally i'd stop once the fluid level is about to start going down the hole in the bottom, where basically everything is out of the resevoir. honestly though, sometimes i dont even bother after emptying because its so little that will be left in there anyways.
so, if you think air is gonna get trapped, dont bleed that far before filling.
also you dont really need to raise the car that high, i just use the spare tire jack on each corner at a time.
so, if you think air is gonna get trapped, dont bleed that far before filling.
also you dont really need to raise the car that high, i just use the spare tire jack on each corner at a time.
06-10-2008, 08:40 AM
#68
Originally Posted by terahertz,Jun 10 2008, 02:50 AM
when they say bleed it a little, they're just being anal about trying to get as much fluid out as possible. personally i'd stop once the fluid level is about to start going down the hole in the bottom, where basically everything is out of the resevoir. honestly though, sometimes i dont even bother after emptying because its so little that will be left in there anyways.
so, if you think air is gonna get trapped, dont bleed that far before filling.
also you dont really need to raise the car that high, i just use the spare tire jack on each corner at a time.
so, if you think air is gonna get trapped, dont bleed that far before filling.
also you dont really need to raise the car that high, i just use the spare tire jack on each corner at a time.
I'm gonna man up and try it tonight or tomorrow.
06-10-2008, 09:32 AM
#69
Registered User
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Apr 24 2007, 09:42 AM
I've come to prefer Motul 600, just because it's not blue. It also has slightly higher specs and (unfortunately) a higher price. It comes in 1/2 liter plastic bottles, while the ATE stuff comes in 1 liter metal cans.
ATE also makes a "Type 200" fluid which is exactly the same as "Superblue" except it's not blue. But it's harder to find.
ATE also makes a "Type 200" fluid which is exactly the same as "Superblue" except it's not blue. But it's harder to find.
two weeks?? i'm on rbf600 and it's been in there for at least a month and i'm going to my second track day on it on friday!