DIY brake Bleeding
01-12-2011, 06:32 AM
#191
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Location: Chesapeake, VA
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If you pressure/power bleed the brakes, can you use the method that Billman posted as far as which areas to bleed first?
I would gravity bleed but I ordered a Motive power bleeder and going to try that first. I have very low patience and the gravity bleeding method would drive me nuts.
I would gravity bleed but I ordered a Motive power bleeder and going to try that first. I have very low patience and the gravity bleeding method would drive me nuts.
02-11-2011, 07:50 PM
#192
Originally Posted by Billman250,Apr 22 2007, 05:22 PM
I bottle of ATE Super Blue is surely enough to do the entire car. You'll use 3/4 -7/8 of the container.
By trial, I've found the best sequence is RF, LF, LR, RR.
Empty the master with a turkey baster.
Crack the right front bleeder, the level will start to drop. Get it a little lower, but not enough to suck air.
Fill the master to the very top with ATE blue.
Start with the right front bleeder. Attach a clear hose, and let it gravity bleed till it turns blue.
Repeat for the remaining wheels.
You'll have such a great brake pedal from the gravity bleed it will feel like the pedal is welded to the car
I have used this procedure on countless s2ks.
By trial, I've found the best sequence is RF, LF, LR, RR.
Empty the master with a turkey baster.
Crack the right front bleeder, the level will start to drop. Get it a little lower, but not enough to suck air.
Fill the master to the very top with ATE blue.
Start with the right front bleeder. Attach a clear hose, and let it gravity bleed till it turns blue.
Repeat for the remaining wheels.
You'll have such a great brake pedal from the gravity bleed it will feel like the pedal is welded to the car
I have used this procedure on countless s2ks.
10-21-2011, 01:21 PM
#194
ISSUE: Leaking Brake master Cylinder @ cap.
BACKGROUND: I had replaced pads, retracted pistons and sucked out some fluid so as to not spill and drove a round a few days. Found that the reservoir sock was wet and checked from where it was leaking, added fluid and cleaned the area with brake cleaner. Last night had the brake light on consistently till I would accel quick which meant it was just low. Checked again and it was near low level so I added fluid....today I check again and what do you know fluid has spilled again. it looks like it is coming straight from the cap. is this possible? It is not overflowing but it is the same fluid that the car came with.
POSSIBLE FIX:Read through this whole thread now for the second time and will be doing Billmans ATE SB Gravity bleed as a test to see if I have an issue with my fluid.
I open the floor to you all! :-)
BACKGROUND: I had replaced pads, retracted pistons and sucked out some fluid so as to not spill and drove a round a few days. Found that the reservoir sock was wet and checked from where it was leaking, added fluid and cleaned the area with brake cleaner. Last night had the brake light on consistently till I would accel quick which meant it was just low. Checked again and it was near low level so I added fluid....today I check again and what do you know fluid has spilled again. it looks like it is coming straight from the cap. is this possible? It is not overflowing but it is the same fluid that the car came with.
POSSIBLE FIX:Read through this whole thread now for the second time and will be doing Billmans ATE SB Gravity bleed as a test to see if I have an issue with my fluid.
I open the floor to you all! :-)
11-14-2011, 11:57 AM
#195
Registered User
I bottle of ATE Super Blue is surely enough to do the entire car. You'll use 3/4 -7/8 of the container.
By trial, I've found the best sequence is RF, LF, LR, RR.
Empty the master with a turkey baster.
Crack the right front bleeder, the level will start to drop. Get it a little lower, but not enough to suck air.
Fill the master to the very top with ATE blue.
Start with the right front bleeder. Attach a clear hose, and let it gravity bleed till it turns blue.
Repeat for the remaining wheels.
You'll have such a great brake pedal from the gravity bleed it will feel like the pedal is welded to the car
I have used this procedure on countless s2ks.
By trial, I've found the best sequence is RF, LF, LR, RR.
Empty the master with a turkey baster.
Crack the right front bleeder, the level will start to drop. Get it a little lower, but not enough to suck air.
Fill the master to the very top with ATE blue.
Start with the right front bleeder. Attach a clear hose, and let it gravity bleed till it turns blue.
Repeat for the remaining wheels.
You'll have such a great brake pedal from the gravity bleed it will feel like the pedal is welded to the car
I have used this procedure on countless s2ks.
how much time does it take?
12-17-2011, 01:30 PM
#196
Registered User
I changed the front rotors and pads today and performed a gravity bleed for the first time today. Unfortunately my dumb**s decided to bleed the brakes in the wrong order. Instead of following Billman's order, I accidentally did LF, RF, RR, LR. Is there's going to be a major disadvantage to having done it in that order?
12-17-2011, 06:37 PM
#197
I changed the front rotors and pads today and performed a gravity bleed for the first time today. Unfortunately my dumb**s decided to bleed the brakes in the wrong order. Instead of following Billman's order, I accidentally did LF, RF, RR, LR. Is there's going to be a major disadvantage to having done it in that order?
12-18-2011, 04:42 AM
#198
Moderator
Starting with the RF allows more fluid to be drained from the master before new stuff is added. Theres a section in the front of the mater that cant be reached with a turkey baster or drain tool.
Did the LF yield the same result?
Did the LF yield the same result?
12-19-2011, 08:53 AM
#199
Registered User
Thanks!
04-01-2012, 02:38 PM
#200
Registered User
Just did this and big props to Billman for the suggestion. Took about 2 hours, but I still have almost half a qrt. of ATE left over...time to do the DD too tomorrow 