philipMT

I own an 04 s2k with only 6000 miles and it started clicking. Did the same on mine and the result was amazing. Had that clicking sound coming from the rear passenger wheel and tightened the axel nut by an extra 60° from factory position. Added grease to the inner part of the axel nut too.

vactor

just did my axle nuts on the rear. they were both very loose on my '09, i was able to easily get them off using just a 24" breaker. if you have an '06+, you really just tighten them up.

WarrenW

So is the new spec for the rears 270-300Ft Lbs? I was at a shop today getting an alignment and I wanted them to tighten the rear axle nuts to 250 but they were very apprehensive about it, saying it's putting a lot of pressure on the wheel bearings at 250. Did Honda issue a TSB for a higher torque spec than the original 180 but less than 250? Billman's post recommending 270-300ft lbs is over 8 yrs old. How have the wheel bearings and other parts in that area been holding up under a 270-300 torque spec?

B serious

You are about to get some RECKLESS answers. RIP logic. You'll see.

270-300 with dry threads is probably just fine.

Also...You're clamping the race of the bearing. Very little (almost nothing) translates to the bearings themselves.

I have had luck using a more sustainable method:

• Wire brushed hub to remove any rust and make it smooth.
• Clean+EP Greased nut face
• Clean+EP Greased threads
• 250LB-FT in constant swing (wrench must be moving at a constant pace when it clicks).

Clean meaning no rust or surface rust or pitting.

windhund116

So, just to be sure... you can remove and tighten the 36mm nut, without un-staking it?

Thanks!

Slowcrash_101

Yep, no unstaking needed. There's a reason the manual says to replace the axle nut.

Chuck S

Removing the nut will push the stake out of the way. You're really unstaking it but not as a separate process. Nut needs to be tightened 60° tighter than OE, that's "one flat" of the 6-sided nut. Procedure is to loosen, clean, grease, and then tighten to the same place the nut was before using the marks and stake scar as a guide, then tighten the additional "flat" and restake. No torque wrench needed.

-- Chuck

Jah2000

Def unstake nuts first before removing... just pry/hammer with a screwdriver or metal wedge or something.

I didn't, and while it def "unstakes itself" when removing the nut, it also damages the male axle and nut threads... which, in-turn, damages the nut threads when re-installing... for me, it felt super rough re-installing, close to cross-threading (I reinspected the nut threads, and they were def shiny/damaged and a little more "squared"). It still worked and I re-installed it with the correct +60º; but if I had to do it again, I'd def unstake the nuts first, to keep them threads clean, pristine and smooth. Not difficult to do neither.

Dunno why no one else has encountered nor mentioned this before. I think it's very important. No one wants damaged, rough nor cross-threaded nut/axle threads.

windhund116

I know this maybe sacrilegious to ask on this board... but... has anyone simply removed the cover and cranked the nut 60°, then re-stake it and call the job done?

Thanks!