DIY 15K, 30K Service
02-16-2005, 11:16 AM
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DIY 15K, 30K Service
I thought it might be useful to start a thread to explain to owners what is done in a 15K or a 30K service so that they can learn to do it themselves. Some of the basic stuff like oil changes and diff and tranny oil changes are covered already, but what about all the inspection stuff. What needs to be inspected and for what. Here is a list of a 30K service from a dealer.
Replace engine oil and filter.
Inspect front and rear brakes.
Check tire inflation and condition.
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots.
Inspect suspension components.
Inspect driveshaft boots.
Replace air cleaner element.
Check parking brake adjustment.
Replace rear differential fluid.
Lubricate all hinges, locks, and latches with multi-purpose grease.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids, and check for leaks.
#Inspect exhaust system.
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.
Check all lights.
Inspect the underbody.
# = See information on maintenance and emissions warranty, last column, page 151 of your owner's manual.
Inspect drive belt.
Replace dust and pollen filter*.
Shadetree mechanics please chime in. Pictures would also help.
Replace engine oil and filter.
Inspect front and rear brakes.
Check tire inflation and condition.
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots.
Inspect suspension components.
Inspect driveshaft boots.
Replace air cleaner element.
Check parking brake adjustment.
Replace rear differential fluid.
Lubricate all hinges, locks, and latches with multi-purpose grease.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids, and check for leaks.
#Inspect exhaust system.
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.
Check all lights.
Inspect the underbody.
# = See information on maintenance and emissions warranty, last column, page 151 of your owner's manual.
Inspect drive belt.
Replace dust and pollen filter*.
Shadetree mechanics please chime in. Pictures would also help.
02-16-2005, 12:38 PM
#3
Registered User
My advice is:
1) Have another car. It is best to take your time and do it right, and it is hard to do that when under the time pressure of needing the car so you can drive to work the next morning.
2) Have a garage. This isn't the kind of stuff you want to be doing in your apartment parking lot (if you are even allowed to work on your car in the parking lot).
3) Have good tools. Be prepared to buy good tools. The first time you do this, it will probably cost you as much as if you had the shop do it (assuming you don't have a good set of tools already).
4) Have the Helm Manual. Also reference the DIY threads on this website.
5) Have fun.
I've done this twice (I have decided to consider the "30K service" as annual maintenance for as long as I am putting a couple thousand track miles on the car each year). The second time went much easier than the first time. Also, I saved a lot of money the second time, because now I had all the tools I needed.
Finally, use the Helm Manual (or Owner's Manual) list for what the 30K service should be. Some of the items on the typical dealer's list don't apply, and others that are called out in the Helm manual don't show up on the dealer's list.
And flush your brake and clutch fluid every other year. (Helm Manual calls for every three years for brakes, and doesn't even mention the clutch. Three years is too long, even for a non-track car IMHO.)
1) Have another car. It is best to take your time and do it right, and it is hard to do that when under the time pressure of needing the car so you can drive to work the next morning.
2) Have a garage. This isn't the kind of stuff you want to be doing in your apartment parking lot (if you are even allowed to work on your car in the parking lot).
3) Have good tools. Be prepared to buy good tools. The first time you do this, it will probably cost you as much as if you had the shop do it (assuming you don't have a good set of tools already).
4) Have the Helm Manual. Also reference the DIY threads on this website.
5) Have fun.
I've done this twice (I have decided to consider the "30K service" as annual maintenance for as long as I am putting a couple thousand track miles on the car each year). The second time went much easier than the first time. Also, I saved a lot of money the second time, because now I had all the tools I needed.
Finally, use the Helm Manual (or Owner's Manual) list for what the 30K service should be. Some of the items on the typical dealer's list don't apply, and others that are called out in the Helm manual don't show up on the dealer's list.
And flush your brake and clutch fluid every other year. (Helm Manual calls for every three years for brakes, and doesn't even mention the clutch. Three years is too long, even for a non-track car IMHO.)
02-16-2005, 07:03 PM
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Xviper,
I have changed my oil and coolant, but for example here is a list of stuff I would not know what to look for?
Inspect front and rear brakes. (What is too much wear?)
Check tire inflation and condition. (how much is too much wear? wear bars?)
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots. (for what?)
Inspect suspension components. (For what?)
Inspect driveshaft boots.(For tears?)
Check parking brake adjustment. (What is good?)
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). (for cracks?)
#Inspect exhaust system. (For rust and cracks?)
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.(for cracks?)
Inspect the underbody.(For what?)
Inspect drive belt. (For cracks and tears?)
I have changed my oil and coolant, but for example here is a list of stuff I would not know what to look for?
Inspect front and rear brakes. (What is too much wear?)
Check tire inflation and condition. (how much is too much wear? wear bars?)
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots. (for what?)
Inspect suspension components. (For what?)
Inspect driveshaft boots.(For tears?)
Check parking brake adjustment. (What is good?)
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). (for cracks?)
#Inspect exhaust system. (For rust and cracks?)
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.(for cracks?)
Inspect the underbody.(For what?)
Inspect drive belt. (For cracks and tears?)
02-16-2005, 07:15 PM
#6
Registered User
With most of that, you'll know it if you see it. Eg. last year I was doing a pre-track inspection and saw a bunch of grease on one of my tie rod boots. A closer inspection revealed that the boot had cracked. You are looking for loose or missing bolts, any leaks, anything that just looks wrong, etc.
Belts and hoses, you are looking for cracks or wear.
Brakes you are looking primarily at pad and rotor thicknesses. Helm Manual has the specs.
In fact, Helm Manual tells you what to look for and where to look for it, in many cases. It seems clear to me from your question that either you do not own it or you are not familiar with it. If you get it and read it, you will find many of your questions answered. As an example, the manual specifies that the parking brake adjustment is "parking brake fully applied after 9-13 clicks on the handle".
Belts and hoses, you are looking for cracks or wear.
Brakes you are looking primarily at pad and rotor thicknesses. Helm Manual has the specs.
In fact, Helm Manual tells you what to look for and where to look for it, in many cases. It seems clear to me from your question that either you do not own it or you are not familiar with it. If you get it and read it, you will find many of your questions answered. As an example, the manual specifies that the parking brake adjustment is "parking brake fully applied after 9-13 clicks on the handle".
02-16-2005, 07:24 PM
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Actually I have a Helms manual. I just look for stuff I need at the time. I am not near the service intervals yet, but this may help others save some dough. A clear abbreviated list would save me some time.
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02-16-2005, 07:53 PM
#9
Originally Posted by reds2' date='Feb 16 2005, 09:03 PM
Xviper,
I have changed my oil and coolant, but for example here is a list of stuff I would not know what to look for?
Inspect front and rear brakes. (What is too much wear?)
Check tire inflation and condition. (how much is too much wear? wear bars?)
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots. (for what?)
Inspect suspension components. (For what?)
Inspect driveshaft boots.(For tears?)
Check parking brake adjustment. (What is good?)
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). (for cracks?)
#Inspect exhaust system. (For rust and cracks?)
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.(for cracks?)
Inspect the underbody.(For what?)
Inspect drive belt. (For cracks and tears?)
I have changed my oil and coolant, but for example here is a list of stuff I would not know what to look for?
Inspect front and rear brakes. (What is too much wear?)
Check tire inflation and condition. (how much is too much wear? wear bars?)
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots. (for what?)
Inspect suspension components. (For what?)
Inspect driveshaft boots.(For tears?)
Check parking brake adjustment. (What is good?)
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). (for cracks?)
#Inspect exhaust system. (For rust and cracks?)
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.(for cracks?)
Inspect the underbody.(For what?)
Inspect drive belt. (For cracks and tears?)
Brakes - other than a visual inspection for leaks and damage, pad thickness service limit is 1.6mm. This is getting REALLY thin. I should hope people change them out long before this. Machine the rotors if they are scored too badly and only if they have enough material to do this. Otherwise, it's cheap enough to just get new ones.
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots - Tie rod ends are balls and sockets. You want to pull on the rod and make sure there is no movement of the ball to try to come out of the socket. Rotational movement is fine.
There isn't much to see with an EPS steering mechanism. Just look for any "blunt trauma" from road debris. I have a "How To" in the FAQs for how to look after rubber boots.
Same goes for suspension - inspect for "blunt trauma".
CV boots - see my "How To".
Parking brake - When applied, it should hold the car between 9 - 13 clicks of the brake lever.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS) - Again, you'll know damage when you see it. Check for leaks. You can't really do a visual on the ABS. I can only suggest that you get onto a piece of road that is loose surfaced (dirt, sand, gravel, rain, dust) and slam on the brakes and make sure that the ABS engages.
#Inspect exhaust system. (For rust and cracks?) - YES! Also listen for leaks. Check to make sure all the rubber hangers are intact.
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.(for cracks?) - YES! Most of the fuel lines are metal under the car. Check to see if any of it has been hit with rocks or road crap that might have dented a line.
Inspect the underbody.(For what?) - If you've hit bottom or have something hit the bottom of the car when driving, you'll know and should have a look to see if any damage has been done. Also look to see if any of the factory undercoating and sprayed on insulation has been scraped off. This will be the source of future rust and should be taken care of.
Inspect drive belt. (For cracks and tears?) - Yes. Look for fraying along the edges. Our serpentine belt naturally have little cracks on the underside. These are normal. What's not normal is a crack that goes all the way across the width of the belt in one continuous line. There should be no cracks or deformities on the outside surface (smooth).
For all this stuff, the dealer can charge you from $300.00 to $400.00.
02-16-2005, 08:24 PM
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Inspect front and rear brakes. (What is too much wear?) Minimum pad thickness is 3mm
Check tire inflation and condition. (how much is too much wear? wear bars?) If your not driving in adverse conditions, as long as cords are not showing, there good. Keep in mind, due to the negative camber on this car, if your at the wear bars toward the middle of the tire, the tire can get dangerously thin toward the inside.
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots. (for what?) With the car on the ground, grab a tire with both hands and try to move it back and fourth. If you feel any play, then you may have a worn wheel bearing or a worn ball joint.
Inspect suspension components. (For what?) Primarily for nut and bolt tightness. I wonder if the service tech's even put a wrench on the nut or bolt? The nuts and bolts that fasten the suspension components together are marked so you can see if they have moved or not. The best way to check to see if they are secure is to put a wrench on them. I think most people don't.
Inspect drive shaft boots.(For tears?) Correct. If the boots are torn, the cv's will get contaminated with dirt and water. It is just a matter of time before they fail.
Check parking brake adjustment. (What is good?) As long as it holds the car. It is good practice to use both the parking brake and the compression of the engine in unison.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). (for cracks?) I would be surprised to see cracks on a brake hose on a relatively new car. I would check for leaks. The way to do this is, while you are underneath the car, have a partner press down on the brake pedal as hard as they can. If there are any leaks, this is when they will surface.
#Inspect exhaust system. (For rust and cracks?) I would say primarily for cracks. I never had a problem with exhaust system mounting hardware loosening up.
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.(for cracks?) I would check the connections for tightness. Don't over tighten. As long as they are firm and do not leak, they are good.
Inspect the underbody.(For what?) Corrosion, damage from hitting the pavement, grease or oil, (caused by an oil leak) If you spot any oil on the bottom of the chassis, there is a good chance that your car is leaking oil from somewhere. This is not good as the source of it may become depleted and cause damage. Also, petroleum products (motor oil) will deteriorate rubber bushings. Our car has quite a few rubber bushings underneath it. If you spot any oil on the undercarriage, particularly the bushings, you need to clean it off immediately. Then you need to find the source of the leak.
Inspect drive belt. (For cracks and tears?) Yes. Cracks come from time and age.
And flush your brake and clutch fluid every other year. (Helm Manual calls for every three years for brakes, and doesn't even mention the clutch. Three years is too long, even for a non-track car IMHO.) I agree. I think a period of no more than two years is when the brake system should be thoroughly flushed regardless of miles. If you drive hard, as in on a track, they should be bleed as needed.
Check tire inflation and condition. (how much is too much wear? wear bars?) If your not driving in adverse conditions, as long as cords are not showing, there good. Keep in mind, due to the negative camber on this car, if your at the wear bars toward the middle of the tire, the tire can get dangerously thin toward the inside.
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box and boots. (for what?) With the car on the ground, grab a tire with both hands and try to move it back and fourth. If you feel any play, then you may have a worn wheel bearing or a worn ball joint.
Inspect suspension components. (For what?) Primarily for nut and bolt tightness. I wonder if the service tech's even put a wrench on the nut or bolt? The nuts and bolts that fasten the suspension components together are marked so you can see if they have moved or not. The best way to check to see if they are secure is to put a wrench on them. I think most people don't.
Inspect drive shaft boots.(For tears?) Correct. If the boots are torn, the cv's will get contaminated with dirt and water. It is just a matter of time before they fail.
Check parking brake adjustment. (What is good?) As long as it holds the car. It is good practice to use both the parking brake and the compression of the engine in unison.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS). (for cracks?) I would be surprised to see cracks on a brake hose on a relatively new car. I would check for leaks. The way to do this is, while you are underneath the car, have a partner press down on the brake pedal as hard as they can. If there are any leaks, this is when they will surface.
#Inspect exhaust system. (For rust and cracks?) I would say primarily for cracks. I never had a problem with exhaust system mounting hardware loosening up.
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.(for cracks?) I would check the connections for tightness. Don't over tighten. As long as they are firm and do not leak, they are good.
Inspect the underbody.(For what?) Corrosion, damage from hitting the pavement, grease or oil, (caused by an oil leak) If you spot any oil on the bottom of the chassis, there is a good chance that your car is leaking oil from somewhere. This is not good as the source of it may become depleted and cause damage. Also, petroleum products (motor oil) will deteriorate rubber bushings. Our car has quite a few rubber bushings underneath it. If you spot any oil on the undercarriage, particularly the bushings, you need to clean it off immediately. Then you need to find the source of the leak.
Inspect drive belt. (For cracks and tears?) Yes. Cracks come from time and age.
And flush your brake and clutch fluid every other year. (Helm Manual calls for every three years for brakes, and doesn't even mention the clutch. Three years is too long, even for a non-track car IMHO.) I agree. I think a period of no more than two years is when the brake system should be thoroughly flushed regardless of miles. If you drive hard, as in on a track, they should be bleed as needed.