Differential Distance Collar dimensions?
10-19-2010, 08:37 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Differential Distance Collar dimensions?
Hi guys,
I know this is hard to find kind of answer ... but anyway. Does anybody just has his J's Racing Differential Distance Collar still not mounted on the differential pinion, so he could tell me some basic dimensions, like height and outside diameter of the collar? I would like to get made one for my car.
Thanks in advance.
I know this is hard to find kind of answer ... but anyway. Does anybody just has his J's Racing Differential Distance Collar still not mounted on the differential pinion, so he could tell me some basic dimensions, like height and outside diameter of the collar? I would like to get made one for my car.
Thanks in advance.
10-19-2010, 10:51 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 17 ft below sea level.
Posts: 4,949
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
16 Posts
It will be half as good without the J's Racing logo... 
You know you have to shim/machine it to the length you need in your diff.. right?
It's not plug&play.
The OEM crush sleeve is... btw
You know you have to shim/machine it to the length you need in your diff.. right?
It's not plug&play.
The OEM crush sleeve is... btw
10-20-2010, 06:33 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 17 ft below sea level.
Posts: 4,949
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
16 Posts
pipka Posted on Oct 20 2010, 09:22 AM
A crush sleeve is not a wear item 
It is easy to install too, no machining.
It's a little harder to get a solid distance sleeve exactly right, for installers with the experience and the tools like Puddymod it looks easy because he knows what he's doing
When both are installed correctly - using new parts when needed - there is no mechanical difference between the 2.
There is no load on the distance piece, solid or crush sleeve.
If you're worried about the locking nut backing off, you should have used a new one..
Or use some loctite.
When I installed my 4.57's a while back I didn't use loctite, I did use a new locking nut.
The diff is still without any axial pinion play.
As expected.....
... and the OEM crush sleeve is piece of sh*t, that will last one racing season at most.
It is easy to install too, no machining.
It's a little harder to get a solid distance sleeve exactly right, for installers with the experience and the tools like Puddymod it looks easy because he knows what he's doing
When both are installed correctly - using new parts when needed - there is no mechanical difference between the 2.
There is no load on the distance piece, solid or crush sleeve.
If you're worried about the locking nut backing off, you should have used a new one..
Or use some loctite.
When I installed my 4.57's a while back I didn't use loctite, I did use a new locking nut.
The diff is still without any axial pinion play.
As expected.....
10-20-2010, 07:30 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Oct 20 2010, 04:33 PM
pipka Posted on Oct 20 2010, 09:22 AM
A crush sleeve is not a wear item
It is easy to install too, no machining.
It's a little harder to get a solid distance sleeve exactly right, for installers with the experience and the tools like Puddymod it looks easy because he knows what he's doing
When both are installed correctly - using new parts when needed - there is no mechanical difference between the 2.
There is no load on the distance piece, solid or crush sleeve.
If you're worried about the locking nut backing off, you should have used a new one..
Or use some loctite.
When I installed my 4.57's a while back I didn't use loctite, I did use a new locking nut.
The diff is still without any axial pinion play.
As expected.....
A crush sleeve is not a wear item
It is easy to install too, no machining.
It's a little harder to get a solid distance sleeve exactly right, for installers with the experience and the tools like Puddymod it looks easy because he knows what he's doing
When both are installed correctly - using new parts when needed - there is no mechanical difference between the 2.
There is no load on the distance piece, solid or crush sleeve.
If you're worried about the locking nut backing off, you should have used a new one..
Or use some loctite.
When I installed my 4.57's a while back I didn't use loctite, I did use a new locking nut.
The diff is still without any axial pinion play.
As expected.....
I've had built my diff properly by Honda ($1000 job), it worked great couple of thousand tracking and street miles, but now diff whine a lot and Im going to rebuilt it again.
10-20-2010, 11:54 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 17 ft below sea level.
Posts: 4,949
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
16 Posts
Preset pinion turning torque (PPTT 
) - or lack of it - doesn't make a gear set whine - as long as there is no play to draw the pinion into the diff during decell.
A wrong pinion to ring distance and/or pinion to ring clearance (not the same) does.
IOW one needs to get the shim between the pinion and bearing correct and set the backlash to spec by "reading" the contact patch on the ring caused by the pinion correctly.
Also, given the s2k diff uses a relatively high offset gear set (why else would Honda recommend a GL-6 oil?), one needs a good oil with strong extreme pressure (EP) properties.
Tracking a car with 75W-90 diff water is IMO not a good idea (not saying you did)
Its not about how much $$ one spends on a diff rebuild, its about paying attention to the right details.
Ask Puddy.
He knows.
) - or lack of it - doesn't make a gear set whine - as long as there is no play to draw the pinion into the diff during decell.A wrong pinion to ring distance and/or pinion to ring clearance (not the same) does.
IOW one needs to get the shim between the pinion and bearing correct and set the backlash to spec by "reading" the contact patch on the ring caused by the pinion correctly.
Also, given the s2k diff uses a relatively high offset gear set (why else would Honda recommend a GL-6 oil?), one needs a good oil with strong extreme pressure (EP) properties.
Tracking a car with 75W-90 diff water is IMO not a good idea (not saying you did)
Its not about how much $$ one spends on a diff rebuild, its about paying attention to the right details.
Ask Puddy.
He knows.
10-20-2010, 11:50 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Oct 20 2010, 09:54 PM
Preset pinion turning torque (PPTT ) - or lack of it - doesn't make a gear set whine - as long as there is no play to draw the pinion into the diff during decell.
A wrong pinion to ring distance and/or pinion to ring clearance (not the same) does.
IOW one needs to get the shim between the pinion and bearing correct and set the backlash to spec by "reading" the contact patch on the ring caused by the pinion correctly.
Also, given the s2k diff uses a relatively high offset gear set (why else would Honda recommend a GL-6 oil?), one needs a good oil with strong extreme pressure (EP) properties.
Tracking a car with 75W-90 diff water is IMO not a good idea (not saying you did)
Its not about how much $$ one spends on a diff rebuild, its about paying attention to the right details.
Ask Puddy.
He knows.
) - or lack of it - doesn't make a gear set whine - as long as there is no play to draw the pinion into the diff during decell.A wrong pinion to ring distance and/or pinion to ring clearance (not the same) does.
IOW one needs to get the shim between the pinion and bearing correct and set the backlash to spec by "reading" the contact patch on the ring caused by the pinion correctly.
Also, given the s2k diff uses a relatively high offset gear set (why else would Honda recommend a GL-6 oil?), one needs a good oil with strong extreme pressure (EP) properties.
Tracking a car with 75W-90 diff water is IMO not a good idea (not saying you did)
Its not about how much $$ one spends on a diff rebuild, its about paying attention to the right details.
Ask Puddy.
He knows.
Let me take it straight ... are you trying to tell me, that solid collar instead of crush one, doesn't make a difference in durability?
Im using a Liqui Moly Hypoid-Getriebeöl (GL5) LS SAE 85W-90 since I have Carbon ATS 1.5way, which requires such a specification to maintaing its locking characteristics.
I know that job quality is not about money, you dont have to train me like that!
Trending Topics
10-21-2010, 11:44 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 17 ft below sea level.
Posts: 4,949
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
16 Posts
pipka Posted on Oct 21 2010, 08:50 AM
Driving forwards, the ring & pinion are pushed apart.
There is almost no downward force on the pinion, its all axial force.
That is the nature of a hypoid final drive gear set.
That is also why the ring gear bearing caps break, during a clutch dump for example.
High shock load, lots of friction, the pinion pushes the ring out backwards.
Anyway..
So, driving forwards, the big conical pinion bearing - in shades of green - takes all the load.
The smaller pinion bearing - in shades of blue - has very little load, "just" keeps the pinion centered in the housing.
During engine braking the pinion is drawn into the ring so the opposite happens, the small bearing takes the - much smaller - load.
A downshift without a rev match creates a bigger load on the smaller bearing.
No load on the distance piece at any time, solid or crush sleeve.
On the Liqui-Moly website I've found the oil you mentioned and its a mineral (dino) gear oil.
The pour point (-22C) and viscosity index (91) confirm that (as far as I know).
LM also has a full syn 75W-140 LS hypoid gear oil.
I don't know if that will work with your ATS LS diff but your final drive gears will love it during racing.
Let me take it straight ... are you trying to tell me, that solid collar instead of crush one, doesn't make a difference in durability?
Driving forwards, the ring & pinion are pushed apart.
There is almost no downward force on the pinion, its all axial force.
That is the nature of a hypoid final drive gear set.
That is also why the ring gear bearing caps break, during a clutch dump for example.
High shock load, lots of friction, the pinion pushes the ring out backwards.
Anyway..
So, driving forwards, the big conical pinion bearing - in shades of green - takes all the load.
The smaller pinion bearing - in shades of blue - has very little load, "just" keeps the pinion centered in the housing.
During engine braking the pinion is drawn into the ring so the opposite happens, the small bearing takes the - much smaller - load.
A downshift without a rev match creates a bigger load on the smaller bearing.
No load on the distance piece at any time, solid or crush sleeve.
On the Liqui-Moly website I've found the oil you mentioned and its a mineral (dino) gear oil.
The pour point (-22C) and viscosity index (91) confirm that (as far as I know).
LM also has a full syn 75W-140 LS hypoid gear oil.
I don't know if that will work with your ATS LS diff but your final drive gears will love it during racing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post