Did I overrev?
11-12-2008, 10:57 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Marin,Nov 11 2008, 02:39 PM
hess2ktouge, you can't overrev in neutral.
You can rev to the redline in neutral all day long and your engine will be fine.
But downshifting into 2nd instead of 4th at too high speed will force the engine to rev _higher_ than the rev limit, which will kill it at some point, usually because the valves hit the pistons.
However, I think the OP should be fine.
You can rev to the redline in neutral all day long and your engine will be fine.
But downshifting into 2nd instead of 4th at too high speed will force the engine to rev _higher_ than the rev limit, which will kill it at some point, usually because the valves hit the pistons.
However, I think the OP should be fine.
still, I would think a neutral dry rev up to redline would be bad for your engine.....
11-13-2008, 05:35 PM
#22
The car is fine, I would not even worry about it. AP2s have the clutch delay valve, which would help lessen the blow. As someone mentioned earlier your tires did not get traction even after the clutch engaged, which helped a ton. And you were downshifting, not up shifting
I did this on an upshift when I had my D17 civic, just before I swapped in the K. Afterwards the car would not stay running at a light and it idled like hell, hence the K-swap
. I took the engine apart and there were two distinct smiley face marks on each piston. I am assuming the exhaust vavles were also bent, although you could not see it in the way they seated. In short the actual mechanical damage was not that severe, but it showed big time in the way the car ran. No loud ticking, no weird idle I would say you are prefectly fine.
Just be more careful when heel toe shifting. It sounds to me like you are not doing it exactly correct. IMO the best way to do it is to hold the shifter just outside of the gate of the next gear, blip and then once the rpms are correct the shifter should just fall into the lower gear, at that point the clutch is released. If you were doing it this way, it would have never fallen into 2nd when going for 4th because the rpms would have never been matched. This also ensures smooth transitions, which is a must for the track.
I did this on an upshift when I had my D17 civic, just before I swapped in the K. Afterwards the car would not stay running at a light and it idled like hell, hence the K-swap
. I took the engine apart and there were two distinct smiley face marks on each piston. I am assuming the exhaust vavles were also bent, although you could not see it in the way they seated. In short the actual mechanical damage was not that severe, but it showed big time in the way the car ran. No loud ticking, no weird idle I would say you are prefectly fine.Just be more careful when heel toe shifting. It sounds to me like you are not doing it exactly correct. IMO the best way to do it is to hold the shifter just outside of the gate of the next gear, blip and then once the rpms are correct the shifter should just fall into the lower gear, at that point the clutch is released. If you were doing it this way, it would have never fallen into 2nd when going for 4th because the rpms would have never been matched. This also ensures smooth transitions, which is a must for the track.
11-14-2008, 07:05 AM
#23
Originally Posted by qbmurderer13,Nov 8 2008, 12:08 PM
The reason you lost traction was because since you shifted to second the car jolted forward and lifted the rear tires off the ground a bit causing you to lose traction. When they came back down thats when they squeeled.
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