Did I kill the S2k? Timing chain jumped?
01-28-2013, 05:07 PM
#21
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That is what I'm leaning to now.... noticed one of the plugs I replaced had a weird brown ring around it where the ceramic meets the metal base of the plug. Not sure if that is indicative of a bad coilpack, but only one of the plugs had it.
01-28-2013, 05:22 PM
#22
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Just want to correct one thing stated here. If you ever do jump a timing chain tooth, that will not cause your valve adjustment readings to become loose (or to change in any way). Yes, your timing would be off, and the amount your valve is open at any given time will be the wrong amount. But the slack when its closed won't change (the clearance between valve and cam as measured when adjusting will not change.) A valve adjustment done with a jumped tooth or 'stretched' chain would still be the correct adjustment).
Many get confused when they do valve clearance adjustment, aligning marks, etc. I find it much easier to just do it by eyeing the cam lobe position (adjust the valves that are fully closed, rotate engine so others are fully closed, adjust those). At the very least, ALWAYS check the cam lobe position of the valve you are adjusting before you make any changes. The cam lobe should be pointing away from the valve (valve being adjusted fully closed).
When you got it running again, if it ran smoothly at first then I'd say your valve timing can't be too far off, and your adjustment must be close to OK. Neither of those would allow it run OK for a short time, then suddenly run very poorly.
That code you pulled is for a misfire. You said you changed the plugs. What new plugs did you use? Brand and part number? Are you sure they are torqued in OK? Are you sure they are connected properly?
My guess is you have an intermittent spark issue. Something electrical that went bad, and sometimes you have spark, sometimes you don't. You original feeling that it was running on only 2 cylinders is probably spot on. I just think its due to an electrical (spark) issue, and not a mechanical (valve timing) issue.
Many get confused when they do valve clearance adjustment, aligning marks, etc. I find it much easier to just do it by eyeing the cam lobe position (adjust the valves that are fully closed, rotate engine so others are fully closed, adjust those). At the very least, ALWAYS check the cam lobe position of the valve you are adjusting before you make any changes. The cam lobe should be pointing away from the valve (valve being adjusted fully closed).
When you got it running again, if it ran smoothly at first then I'd say your valve timing can't be too far off, and your adjustment must be close to OK. Neither of those would allow it run OK for a short time, then suddenly run very poorly.
That code you pulled is for a misfire. You said you changed the plugs. What new plugs did you use? Brand and part number? Are you sure they are torqued in OK? Are you sure they are connected properly?
My guess is you have an intermittent spark issue. Something electrical that went bad, and sometimes you have spark, sometimes you don't. You original feeling that it was running on only 2 cylinders is probably spot on. I just think its due to an electrical (spark) issue, and not a mechanical (valve timing) issue.
Have NGK platinums, same ones I have been using trouble free before. Thinking I'm going to change all of the coil packs to the newer AP2 ones. Still have the original coil packs in there so even if that is not the problem it couldn't hurt seeing they have 249k on them!
01-28-2013, 09:37 PM
#23
I have seen engines run fine for the first 20 second they go to crap due to primary O2 sensor problems. The cars initially start in open loop, then switchover to closed loop on a time delay that varies with engine temperature. Try unplugging the O2 sensors and running without them.
02-20-2013, 04:57 PM
#24
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Well, finally got a chance to work on the problem. Still having problems! Here is what I've done since last post....
*Compression test was even across the cylinders
*VA done
*TB cleaned out (was really dirty)
*MAP whack and zip tied
*Moved coil packs around and put in new set of NGK
*Replaced battery
Car starts and runs with a slight wobble. Not bad enough that it looks like it is going to die, but not smooth idle like it used to. After sitting at idle for about 2 minutes, CEL comes on (flashing) with P1399 and no other codes. Any ideas what would be the next best place to start looking at? Also, if the alternator is going out would that cause a P1399???
Having my S2 sit in the garage is like having a supermodel girlfriend that you never take anywhere.... gotta get her out and show her off!
*Compression test was even across the cylinders
*VA done
*TB cleaned out (was really dirty)
*MAP whack and zip tied
*Moved coil packs around and put in new set of NGK
*Replaced battery
Car starts and runs with a slight wobble. Not bad enough that it looks like it is going to die, but not smooth idle like it used to. After sitting at idle for about 2 minutes, CEL comes on (flashing) with P1399 and no other codes. Any ideas what would be the next best place to start looking at? Also, if the alternator is going out would that cause a P1399???
Having my S2 sit in the garage is like having a supermodel girlfriend that you never take anywhere.... gotta get her out and show her off!
02-20-2013, 05:10 PM
#25
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not trying to thread highjack but when you say 250K Miles. is it 250 KM or 250 Miles b/c there is a huge diff. Also i thought these engines were bulletproof (it a honda engine) Why so little KM or Miles and it's done, what's this crazy talk 
02-20-2013, 05:36 PM
#26
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It's 250K miles. It's not done yet... just a minor hiccup I'm hoping!
02-21-2013, 05:57 PM
#28
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