chris_barry

There is stretch in that chain but it has not jumped a tooth. Ignore the blue links position. If you turn the engine over enough the links will get to the initial setup position.

The factory ECU's will not run if the cams are out by a tooth, but I've seen a few with similar marking positions to yours and they have run fine.

Have you checked fuel pressure and voltages to coils/injectors?

Billman250

^ agree your cam timing is 100% ok.

Murphg05

turned the motor over about a hundred times... links came back to where they are in the photo several times (head scratcher). BUT, that is not to say they were put back with the links alinged when the head work was done. I had spark at the plugs, and I could smell unburned gas out of the tailpipe.

Murphg05

Hmmmm. Ok, if I drop the oil pan and pull the timing cover... I should be able to remove the cam caps and cams to get at the cam gear in the front? Without touching the lower cam ladder assembly? That is the only part that worries me about messing with it. I don't want those things to fall apart on me!

Murphg05

That's ok for the bad news... sometimes the obvious needs to be stated! Gonna have to try and bring this motor back to life though... looked around for an F22 and it's gonna be out of budget for a minute! LOL ( I'll have to save that stroker build idea for later )

chris_barry

Try a compression test or leakdown test. Something fundamental has gone wrong which needs to discovered before you start changing out chains etc.

Have a go at starting it with the MAP sensor wiring unplugged.

Murphg05

Ok... i will put it all back together and start with the simple things. That would be great if I didn't have to replace the chain! Thanks

Murphg05

got everything put back together.... cleaned the throttle body which was really bad! Got her started again... ran for a minute then ran like crap again. Threw a P1399 CEL.... GGGrrrrrr

Car Analogy

Just want to correct one thing stated here. If you ever do jump a timing chain tooth, that will not cause your valve adjustment readings to become loose (or to change in any way). Yes, your timing would be off, and the amount your valve is open at any given time will be the wrong amount. But the slack when its closed won't change (the clearance between valve and cam as measured when adjusting will not change.) A valve adjustment done with a jumped tooth or 'stretched' chain would still be the correct adjustment).

Many get confused when they do valve clearance adjustment, aligning marks, etc. I find it much easier to just do it by eyeing the cam lobe position (adjust the valves that are fully closed, rotate engine so others are fully closed, adjust those). At the very least, ALWAYS check the cam lobe position of the valve you are adjusting before you make any changes. The cam lobe should be pointing away from the valve (valve being adjusted fully closed).


When you got it running again, if it ran smoothly at first then I'd say your valve timing can't be too far off, and your adjustment must be close to OK. Neither of those would allow it run OK for a short time, then suddenly run very poorly.

That code you pulled is for a misfire. You said you changed the plugs. What new plugs did you use? Brand and part number? Are you sure they are torqued in OK? Are you sure they are connected properly?

My guess is you have an intermittent spark issue. Something electrical that went bad, and sometimes you have spark, sometimes you don't. You original feeling that it was running on only 2 cylinders is probably spot on. I just think its due to an electrical (spark) issue, and not a mechanical (valve timing) issue.

_brandon

Try testing out the coil packs?