v2deLsoL

I have read a good amount of threads and came to the conclusion that I do not want to manually bleed/pump my brakes and/or clutch. Is there a device that sucks fluid from the bleeding screws that will ensure a 100% airless process? Every time I do this manually, it feels softer than normal.

What I

tof

From the thread title I thought maybe you were describing a crescent wrench. I end up bleeding almost every time I use one on my old 92 rustbucket.

You could get a speed bleeder...or...

you could get a long length of vacuum line. Run some brake fluid through it to make sure it is clean inside. Then put one end over the bleeder and the other end in the resevior. Then just start pumping. Works for brakes and clutch...at least I have had good luck with it.

Also, the S2K may be sensitive to the order in which you bleed the brakes. (You do have to bleed them all regardless of which ones you worked on.) I don't know the order for the S2K. On my galant it is NOT furthest to closest like it is on most cars...its something weird like R/D R/P F/P F/D or some such.

RACER

It dun't make sense to bleed with old, contaminated fluid. May as well use fresh, non-contaminated fluid to bleed.

The sequence is as follows: Left front, right front, right rear, left rear.

photown

Don't waste your money on the speed bleeder. Try the gravity bleeding technique. I think it works best for our car.

iam7head

there's vaccum pump for brake

andt here's mechanical check valves for the nipple, both will pretty much ensure a bubbleless brake bleed.

the speed bleeder runs around 25-40ish?

i never have one even i bleed mine twice a year, flush around once a year, i don't see the point by buying it if you really know how to bleed it manually.

GL

JimiChanga

According to Billman, correct me if I'm wrong, but he suggests going RF, LF, LR, RR.

RACER

Whether Billman is right or wrong, according to the Helm manual, it's left front, right front, right rear, left rear.