Cylinder Head Removed
#21
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Dec 19 2009, 07:16 AM
S2k head bolts are not torque to yield. They can be safely reused after inspecting the threads. Used bolts have a different torque angle setting than new
The torque that is stated in the manual is well below the force that warp them.
I recommend a replacement of the valve guides. Especially the exhaust guides will heavily wear!
#22
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The service manual is pretty clear:
You start with (only) 29 Nm.
For old bolts => two steps of 90 degrees.
For new bolts => three steps of 90 degrees.
(Whatever the torque will be.)
Put motor oil on the threads!
You start with (only) 29 Nm.
For old bolts => two steps of 90 degrees.
For new bolts => three steps of 90 degrees.
(Whatever the torque will be.)
Put motor oil on the threads!
#23
Spitfire, will moly engine assembly lube work?
Then when I torque, in sequence, do I just do first bolt to 29 N-m, then the second to 29, third, etc? Won't it free up the first bolt up more?
Then when I torque, in sequence, do I just do first bolt to 29 N-m, then the second to 29, third, etc? Won't it free up the first bolt up more?
#24
I would get the head lightly skimmed/resurfaced to make sure is absolutely flat. I've machined many of them and never found one that didnt need at least a few thou removed to get it flat.
Get the machining shop to run a vacuum test on your valves to check the seat/valve sealing.
I also suggest getting a bright light and carefully rock the pistons in the bores so you can see the top ring down the gap between the piston/bore. You only want to see one slot/join in the top ring. If it has several gaps in it you have broken rings.
Get the machining shop to run a vacuum test on your valves to check the seat/valve sealing.
I also suggest getting a bright light and carefully rock the pistons in the bores so you can see the top ring down the gap between the piston/bore. You only want to see one slot/join in the top ring. If it has several gaps in it you have broken rings.
#25
I had a look on your album and saw this pic of the intake manifold.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Ijmab-yIwhg/SyljbUHQ...20/DSC00621.JPG
There is a lot of oil in intake #1 and also the others. Your engine must have a lot of BlowBy. What about your oil consumption?
Take Chris' advice and look for the rings!
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Ijmab-yIwhg/SyljbUHQ...20/DSC00621.JPG
There is a lot of oil in intake #1 and also the others. Your engine must have a lot of BlowBy. What about your oil consumption?
Take Chris' advice and look for the rings!
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Kirpich Posted on Dec 20 2009, 07:53 AM
I don't know.
Its probably best to stick to the manual in this case.
The manual also says that if the bolt makes a noise you should loosen it and try again.
I've worked with fasteners for a while now, and especially unlubed stainless steel ones will "chirp" just before they seize.
And once they seize.. you're done
As long as you use the sequence, I guess you could start with 10Nm?
There was an item on Discovery the other day about an engine being build in a factory, and they used a machine that tightened all bolts at once!
Spitfire, will moly engine assembly lube work?
Its probably best to stick to the manual in this case.
The manual also says that if the bolt makes a noise you should loosen it and try again.
I've worked with fasteners for a while now, and especially unlubed stainless steel ones will "chirp" just before they seize.
And once they seize.. you're done
Then when I torque, in sequence, do I just do first bolt to 29 N-m, then the second to 29, third, etc? Won't it free up the first bolt up more?
There was an item on Discovery the other day about an engine being build in a factory, and they used a machine that tightened all bolts at once!
#27
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Ya, I figured the service manual would have noted the fact that new bolts were needed. I'm taking the head in for inspection/testing on Monday. I'll let ya know what they find.
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Originally Posted by bpaspi,Dec 20 2009, 01:49 AM
I had a look on your album and saw this pic of the intake manifold.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Ijmab-yIwhg/SyljbUHQ...20/DSC00621.JPG
There is a lot of oil in intake #1 and also the others. Your engine must have a lot of BlowBy. What about your oil consumption?
Take Chris' advice and look for the rings!
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Ijmab-yIwhg/SyljbUHQ...20/DSC00621.JPG
There is a lot of oil in intake #1 and also the others. Your engine must have a lot of BlowBy. What about your oil consumption?
Take Chris' advice and look for the rings!
#30
Think about what you're saying...how would oil get from the crankcase or oil passages in the head and clog up the intake manifold which has air going the opposite direction? That's carbon buildup.