CV cup, how to do without ballpoint separator?
#1
CV cup, how to do without ballpoint separator?
EDIT - Did not want to make a whole new thread..
How can I get the axle out without poping the balljoints, i remember reading this was optional.
AKA what is the easiest hassle free way to do it? If it's a lot easier poping the ball joint i will just buy the tool.
Will be doing this soon:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/241...diy-with-pics/
I want to get new boots and clamps, what else should i get?
Also is there anything that may get stripped or broken (i will order as precaution, all the parts seem cheap)
42017-S2A-010 001 002 BOOT SET, INBOARD
42018-S2A-020 002 002 BOOT SET, OUTBOARD
42310-S2A-951 003 001 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R.
42311-S2A-951 004 001 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., L.
42320-S2A-310 005 002 JOINT, INBOARD
44014-S2A-953 006 002 JOINT SET, OUTBOARD
44327-SV4-305 007 002 BAND, JOINT BOOT (DOUBLE ROLLED BAND)
44327-SX0-C02 008 002 BAND, OUTBOARD BOOT (NIPPON HATSUJO)
44327-SDA-A11 008 002 BAND B, DRIVESHAFT (OETIKER LIMITED)
44329-SV4-305 009 002 BAND, SHAFT BOOT (DOUBLE ROLLED BAND)
44329-S2A-N01 010 002 BAND C
44337-SB0-300 011 002 RING B, STOPPER
44338-SM1-300 012 002 CIRCLIP (26MM)
90181-S2A-000 013 012 BOLT, FLANGE (10X26)
90305-SD4-003 014 002 NUT, SPINDLE (24MM)
90002-S10-000 015 012 NUT, FLANGE (10MM)
How can I get the axle out without poping the balljoints, i remember reading this was optional.
AKA what is the easiest hassle free way to do it? If it's a lot easier poping the ball joint i will just buy the tool.
Will be doing this soon:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/241...diy-with-pics/
I want to get new boots and clamps, what else should i get?
Also is there anything that may get stripped or broken (i will order as precaution, all the parts seem cheap)
42017-S2A-010 001 002 BOOT SET, INBOARD
42018-S2A-020 002 002 BOOT SET, OUTBOARD
42310-S2A-951 003 001 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R.
42311-S2A-951 004 001 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., L.
42320-S2A-310 005 002 JOINT, INBOARD
44014-S2A-953 006 002 JOINT SET, OUTBOARD
44327-SV4-305 007 002 BAND, JOINT BOOT (DOUBLE ROLLED BAND)
44327-SX0-C02 008 002 BAND, OUTBOARD BOOT (NIPPON HATSUJO)
44327-SDA-A11 008 002 BAND B, DRIVESHAFT (OETIKER LIMITED)
44329-SV4-305 009 002 BAND, SHAFT BOOT (DOUBLE ROLLED BAND)
44329-S2A-N01 010 002 BAND C
44337-SB0-300 011 002 RING B, STOPPER
44338-SM1-300 012 002 CIRCLIP (26MM)
90181-S2A-000 013 012 BOLT, FLANGE (10X26)
90305-SD4-003 014 002 NUT, SPINDLE (24MM)
90002-S10-000 015 012 NUT, FLANGE (10MM)
#2
Moderator
In all honesty, you wont need a single part.
The clamps are stainless steel, and designed as such they can be taken on and off endless times.
I've done dozens of bucket swaps and never bought a single part. I have never seen a boot failure in 9 years of doing so.
The clamps are stainless steel, and designed as such they can be taken on and off endless times.
I've done dozens of bucket swaps and never bought a single part. I have never seen a boot failure in 9 years of doing so.
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#10
I didn't have a long enough breaker bar or arm power for the axle nut so I left it all alone and managed to push the cup out of the axle. After you unbolt The cup has a useless shaft that does nothing but protrude into the diff and flip you off like a middle finger. There should be enough play in the CV joints that you can push hard enough to clear the protruding shaft off the diff. It may help o unbolt the sway bar but I didn't do it.