Slows2k

I'm still working out all the details, but I'm pretty sure price would be similar to the Cusco and Greddy cans

xviper

Very nice! Do tell us later if you actually find any oil in there and under what type of driving conditions you've put your car through.

Mirror

nice work keep us updated.

Slows2k

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper
Very nice!

xviper

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Slows2k

Gernby

It is a very nice looking piece, but I don't like the fact that you can't see how full it is. The only way that you can check it, is to empty it. My catch can is opaque (like the brake reservoir), so you can see the oil level at a glance. This is particularly nice, since I can go weeks without it gathering a drop, nearly fill it in 1 track session, empty it and top off my engine oil, then do 3 more track sessions without it seeing another drop. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to its fill rate. However, if the can does fill up, it will result in a tremendous mess in your intake manifold. It would be MUCH better to have no catch can than a full catch can.

Gernby

You might also consider moving the outlet (to the IM) to the center of the top, so that it will be less effected by sloshing (turning, braking, etc.) in the event it does fill up.

Gernby

While smoking, I had another thought about the baffles. A drilled plate can cause squirts and splatters when a fluid sloshes through it. A better baffle might be some sort of mesh.

Slows2k

There are some good points here, I'll do my best to address them. I didn't use a mesh/steel wool baffle beacause there is no way to attach to the inside walls of the can. The current baffles are welded. It's not worth the risk to have the baffles break free and enter the intake manifold.

I considered a top mount inlet, But It would have required a reduced can height to clear the hood. The bigger issuse is all hose barb fittings use NPT threads, which are tapered. You would have to use a 90 deg fitting on the top of the can. If anyone has messed with NPT fittings, getting an angled fitting to tighten up and face the right direction is difficult at best. The inlet fitting also required to be clocked so it would not be in the way of the AC lines, the battery, and the H20 valve. Using straight hose barbs allows the correct placement of both fittings, to avoid the underhood obstsacles.
The reason I didn't include a sight glass is twofold.
1. The welding was being done as a favor, And didn't need to be more complicated than necessary.
2. The can is easy to remove, and drain. You pull 1 nut from the hold down, and the whole can comes out. I have since found a source for a lever style drain, which would make removal to drain unnecessary.

The can should be big enough to last between oil changes, and hot lap sessions at a road course.

Gernby

You could use the baffles that you already have, but add a stainless steel "wool" between the top baffle and the outlet.

You can also replace the threaded fittings with rubber grommets and "snap in" fittings. The presence of vacuum will enhance the seal, and a slight leakage wouldn't even matter. The fittings on my catch can are like this, and it has no effect. The can never sees positive pressure, so oil leaks really can't occur.