A cure for after-market exhaust resonance problems? (long)
10-03-2003, 11:06 PM
#21
Registered User
The resonator is tuned for a specific length of exhaust piping...change that and you've changed the frequency, so you'd need to change the length of the resonator, as well.
10-04-2003, 04:19 PM
#22
Registered User
My new exhaust does not have a resonator, so will it be quieter than the one I have now? BTW, I have the Speed N1 and like Russ, I like 'em loud. BUT, my the exhaust gives my GF headaches on long rides.
10-05-2003, 08:46 AM
#23
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Without the resonator you will be even louder.
Somebody correct me here, but the stock S comes with a resonator and the Helmholtz resonator. The little tube is the Helmholtz?
Somebody correct me here, but the stock S comes with a resonator and the Helmholtz resonator. The little tube is the Helmholtz?
10-10-2003, 09:37 AM
#24
Thread Starter
So here is my final solution for the Spugen single resonance problem. The LegalBill Home made silencer!
Just get a 2 and 1/4 inch inside diameter to 1 and 3/4 inch outside diameter exhaust pipe adapter. They cost $2.00 at pep boys. It is about 4 or 5 inches long.
You have to do a little filing around the outside of the 2 and 1/4 inch end. File it until the adapter slides "snug" into the tip of the exhaust. Remember, you still want it to come out when you want to remove it. In case you haven't figured it out, you insert the small end of the adapter first. You want it to slide all the way in to where the flared section of the tip meets the unflared section so it can't really be seen by the casual observer.
Next, with the adapter in place, you have to drill a hole up from the bottom of the Stainless steel tip of the exhaust all the way through both tip walls (if your tip is double walled) and through the adaptor. The drill bit must be big enough to make a hole to accomodate a 10-32nds screw after you tap the hole out. On the Spugen, the hole I drilled is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch inside the tip, measured from the point where the flared rim of the tip meets the unflared section of the tip. Don't drill the hole too far in or you won't be able to tighten the screw.
Now, remove the adapter from the tip and with a drill bit one or two sizes bigger, drill out the hole in the adapter. Then, using the same bit, drill out the hole in the outer wall of the double wall tip (skip this step if you have single wall tips). This makes the hole in the adapter big enough to fit a screw through, and the hole in the outer wall of the tip big enough to fit the tap through. Spray some WD40 or a little oil on the smaller hole that you drilled through the inner wall of the tip as you will now tap some threads into it.
Now take your 10-32nds tap, and insert it up through the larger hole you drilled in the outer wall of the tip. Insert it straight up intil it engages the smaller hole in the inner wall of the tip. (If you have a single wall tip, just tap the hole from the bottom.) Carefully cut threads into the inner wall of the tip. The stainless steel is thick enough that I got about three good rows of threads.
You may have to file off some burrs from drilling and tapping up from the bottom, but next you test fit the 10-32 screw into the threaded hole. Be careful. You don't want to drop the screw into the muffler.
If the screw goes in smoothly, remove it, insert the adapter, line up the big hole you drilled in the adapter with the threaded hole in the stainless tip and install the screw with a lock washer. When you get it finger tight, you will need a 90 degree bent screwdriver to reach into the tip and tighten it up about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
This has really reduced the resonance. It is almost gone entirely, but the system is still louder than stock. It takes less than a minute to remove the silencer when I want it opened up for autocrossing.
Just get a 2 and 1/4 inch inside diameter to 1 and 3/4 inch outside diameter exhaust pipe adapter. They cost $2.00 at pep boys. It is about 4 or 5 inches long.
You have to do a little filing around the outside of the 2 and 1/4 inch end. File it until the adapter slides "snug" into the tip of the exhaust. Remember, you still want it to come out when you want to remove it. In case you haven't figured it out, you insert the small end of the adapter first. You want it to slide all the way in to where the flared section of the tip meets the unflared section so it can't really be seen by the casual observer.
Next, with the adapter in place, you have to drill a hole up from the bottom of the Stainless steel tip of the exhaust all the way through both tip walls (if your tip is double walled) and through the adaptor. The drill bit must be big enough to make a hole to accomodate a 10-32nds screw after you tap the hole out. On the Spugen, the hole I drilled is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch inside the tip, measured from the point where the flared rim of the tip meets the unflared section of the tip. Don't drill the hole too far in or you won't be able to tighten the screw.
Now, remove the adapter from the tip and with a drill bit one or two sizes bigger, drill out the hole in the adapter. Then, using the same bit, drill out the hole in the outer wall of the double wall tip (skip this step if you have single wall tips). This makes the hole in the adapter big enough to fit a screw through, and the hole in the outer wall of the tip big enough to fit the tap through. Spray some WD40 or a little oil on the smaller hole that you drilled through the inner wall of the tip as you will now tap some threads into it.
Now take your 10-32nds tap, and insert it up through the larger hole you drilled in the outer wall of the tip. Insert it straight up intil it engages the smaller hole in the inner wall of the tip. (If you have a single wall tip, just tap the hole from the bottom.) Carefully cut threads into the inner wall of the tip. The stainless steel is thick enough that I got about three good rows of threads.
You may have to file off some burrs from drilling and tapping up from the bottom, but next you test fit the 10-32 screw into the threaded hole. Be careful. You don't want to drop the screw into the muffler.
If the screw goes in smoothly, remove it, insert the adapter, line up the big hole you drilled in the adapter with the threaded hole in the stainless tip and install the screw with a lock washer. When you get it finger tight, you will need a 90 degree bent screwdriver to reach into the tip and tighten it up about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
This has really reduced the resonance. It is almost gone entirely, but the system is still louder than stock. It takes less than a minute to remove the silencer when I want it opened up for autocrossing.
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