Cruise control and air conditioning system differences year to year?
08-04-2015, 04:29 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Cruise control and air conditioning system differences year to year?
Sheldon has no air conditioning, and yeah, it's a convertible, I know. But when it's 95F and 40% humidity, top down in traffic just sucks ass. So I want it back. Does anyone have information as to whether I can source the related parts from a junkyard from ANY S2K, or does it need to be AP1/AP2-specific?
Same story for the cruise control components. Not there when I bought it, tired of driving like this on the highway (now I'm at 70, now I'm at 60, now I'm at 55, now I'm at 75....)
Same story for the cruise control components. Not there when I bought it, tired of driving like this on the highway (now I'm at 70, now I'm at 60, now I'm at 55, now I'm at 75....)
08-04-2015, 05:28 AM
#2
Registered User
It appears you just need to stick to 2005 and earlier parts for both projects
You'll need pre-2006 cruise control 'cuz '06 and later works off the DBW system. I think I spotted the "actuator" on Ebay a couple of months ago. That and the cable seem to be the only critical parts needed. I'm assuming the wiring is still there. If so this could be not much more than Plug-n-Play.
Air conditioning parts list has one (1) set of numbers I can detect. A wrecked car seems the only economic way of retrofitting it. The parts list is pretty daunting starting with the compressor and condenser plus a myriad of small parts! We need to inventory what's on the car now. Maybe someone is buggering a good S2000 into some sort of race car and is removing all the parts and will respond. Got heat in the garage? This looks like a major project especially if parts are obtained one by one.
Of course all the parts look to be available new if you want to take out a second mortgage on the house!
-- Chuck
You'll need pre-2006 cruise control 'cuz '06 and later works off the DBW system. I think I spotted the "actuator" on Ebay a couple of months ago. That and the cable seem to be the only critical parts needed. I'm assuming the wiring is still there. If so this could be not much more than Plug-n-Play.
Air conditioning parts list has one (1) set of numbers I can detect. A wrecked car seems the only economic way of retrofitting it. The parts list is pretty daunting starting with the compressor and condenser plus a myriad of small parts! We need to inventory what's on the car now. Maybe someone is buggering a good S2000 into some sort of race car and is removing all the parts and will respond. Got heat in the garage? This looks like a major project especially if parts are obtained one by one.
Of course all the parts look to be available new if you want to take out a second mortgage on the house!
-- Chuck
08-04-2015, 08:44 AM
#3
Look on the forums all the ac stuff is the same, except for the CR with ac deleted. I got a used compressor for $120 shipped. Got new 134r o rings, PAG 47 oil, a new drier and expansion valve. Used Oem is better than new aftermarket generally speaking. You can use aftermarket drier and expansion valves because those parts are non moving parts. I would have a shop recover the refrigerant and oil, then change all the parts myself, as all the ac stuff is pretty straightforward to change. Then have the same shop vacuum the system for at least 30 min, but the longer you vacuum the better. Vacuuming lowers the boiling point of water, in fact it will boil at 80f at 29.4" of hg, making it much easier to pull moisture from the system. Then charge the system, total capacity is almost 4oz of oil and a little over a lb of refrigerant 1.22lbs to be exact. The specs are on the hood near the high side service valve, near the hood latch.
Once it's all done, with the compressor and engine running you should see between 180-220 psi on the high side and no more than 45ish psi on the low side. Higher than that and you risk pumping liquid into the compressor, which is a bad thing.
Once it's all done, with the compressor and engine running you should see between 180-220 psi on the high side and no more than 45ish psi on the low side. Higher than that and you risk pumping liquid into the compressor, which is a bad thing.
08-04-2015, 08:55 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Look on the forums all the ac stuff is the same, except for the CR with ac deleted. I got a used compressor for $120 shipped. Got new 134r o rings, PAG 47 oil, a new drier and expansion valve. Used Oem is better than new aftermarket generally speaking. You can use aftermarket drier and expansion valves because those parts are non moving parts. I would have a shop recover the refrigerant and oil, then change all the parts myself, as all the ac stuff is pretty straightforward to change. Then have the same shop vacuum the system for at least 30 min, but the longer you vacuum the better. Vacuuming lowers the boiling point of water, in fact it will boil at 80f at 29.4" of hg, making it much easier to pull moisture from the system. Then charge the system, total capacity is almost 4oz of oil and a little over a lb of refrigerant 1.22lbs to be exact. The specs are on the hood near the high side service valve, near the hood latch.
Once it's all done, with the compressor and engine running you should see between 180-220 psi on the high side and no more than 45ish psi on the low side. Higher than that and you risk pumping liquid into the compressor, which is a bad thing.
Once it's all done, with the compressor and engine running you should see between 180-220 psi on the high side and no more than 45ish psi on the low side. Higher than that and you risk pumping liquid into the compressor, which is a bad thing.
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