Crank no start, literally one day to the next. Fuel problem?
#1
Crank no start, literally one day to the next. Fuel problem?
I have been driving the car with no issues, VTEC kicks in fine (read on why I mention this). I didn't drive the car for maybe 4 days, I go in it and CRANK CRANK CRANK...nothing. Car won't start.
I read through the forums. I already checked all the fuses under the dash and hood, none are blown. CEL comes on, but when I check which code it is, it is P1259 "VTEC malfunction"...I have had zero issues with VTEC prior, and this alone shouldn't cause the car to not start. Even when I reset the code, it pretty much immediately comes back.
I sprayed some started fluid in the manifold and the car started sputtering, so I assume it has spark. I can clearly hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when I move the key to the ON position. I have an AFR gauge in the car and even at 9k rpm full throttle the car runs correct rich AFRs the last time I drove it, so I don't think it could be a plugged fuel system...
I disconnected the Cam sensor, it didn't help the car start.
Parts that have been replaced in the past two years that could have somewhat contributed if I haven't replaced them (since I have owned the car).
- All spark plugs (NGKs)
- All Coils
- VTEC gasket
I don't know what else could cause this? Where to go next?
While I haven't been driving this car daily recently, it is my only car and I am not ready to spend money on towing and any mechanic expenses
I read through the forums. I already checked all the fuses under the dash and hood, none are blown. CEL comes on, but when I check which code it is, it is P1259 "VTEC malfunction"...I have had zero issues with VTEC prior, and this alone shouldn't cause the car to not start. Even when I reset the code, it pretty much immediately comes back.
I sprayed some started fluid in the manifold and the car started sputtering, so I assume it has spark. I can clearly hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when I move the key to the ON position. I have an AFR gauge in the car and even at 9k rpm full throttle the car runs correct rich AFRs the last time I drove it, so I don't think it could be a plugged fuel system...
I disconnected the Cam sensor, it didn't help the car start.
Parts that have been replaced in the past two years that could have somewhat contributed if I haven't replaced them (since I have owned the car).
- All spark plugs (NGKs)
- All Coils
- VTEC gasket
I don't know what else could cause this? Where to go next?
While I haven't been driving this car daily recently, it is my only car and I am not ready to spend money on towing and any mechanic expenses
Last edited by soccaz34; 06-02-2020 at 05:20 PM.
#2
Has the engine been modified?
#3
#4
Can you run the car without the Greddy piggyback? Just to rule-out that unit or connections being the problem?
#5
IIRC, Emanage can alter VTEC engagement point. Of course I'm drunk right now so my IIRC abilities are limited right now so...yeah Emanage.
#6
I have been trying to get to do that but it has been raining here for the past two days and I have everything tucked in well and tight around the ECU so it would take a while. Anything else that could be in the meantime?
#7
hahaha yes, through Emanage I have my AFRs set and my VTEC point lowered. But that alone shouldn't affect anything. Car runs closed loop until VTEC kicks in.
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#8
Does it start with the accelerator pedal pushed on ignition start ? I just had a similar issue with my other Honda and I have to crack the throttle open for it to start., not usually needed with fuel injected cars but that is the only way I can start it. I think it is related to the idle air control system but I can't find the issue.
#9
No engine lights, VTEC engages normal at 6k rpm. So maybe it's something in Emanage related to that and the car starting somehow?
Now onto the question, what could've failed in the Emanage to make the car not start... everything is screwed in together, nothing moves around there. Cables looked healthy, but I will have to check again. I'm just happy because I know this car runs like a top and nothing should be wrong with it from one day to the next.
I will have to check those things in a few days though... in the meantime I'm happy to listen to ideas.
#10
It's either in the harness or the actual tune, I would plug back the GEMU and remove all the "tuning" in the software and see how it behaves.
If you got it setup so each table use one of the small switches on the side of the unit its easy to turn it off that way.
If you still got a problem then look at the harness for bad connections.
If you got it setup so each table use one of the small switches on the side of the unit its easy to turn it off that way.
If you still got a problem then look at the harness for bad connections.