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Cuz he can't get it off lol. He broke the holder tool where it's held with a breaker bar on his first attempt. He then used it again with it wedged against the eps and it still wouldn't break loose using a breaker bar and a pipe, the motor was lifting up from torn mounts. I'm going to be sending him my Lisle socket as I no longer really have a need for it; already did my crank bolt/pulley for my supercharger months ago, so it's just chilling in my box.
I will say though, using a Milwaukee M18 fuel and the Lisle socket that bolt came out on the first ugga dugga, that Milwaukee got some serious torque; enough to pull the panties off a nun.
He lives in South Africa, so most of the shit we can just buy on Amazon isn't as readily available there. I was the one who sent him the holder tool initially.
Which is why my heart sank even lower once the tool broke! It didn't cost me much but having it shipped all the way, waiting for it then breaking it without getting the job done sucked...
That Lisle socket may be the golden ticket. Either way I'll get the holder repaired and use it again.
Struggled for over an hour with a friend today when trying to remove a SC crank pulley,
10min with a IR2235 at 145psi with zero success.
Honda tool wouldn't fit so we had to wedge the flywheel stuck and then use 3/4" breaker bar and a 5 ft pipe, even with that it took a lot of effort but it finally cracked loose.
Good luck Rolan
Guys, why shouldn't a person resort to the starter bump method to loosen that beastly bolt? While hand cranking on it again yesterday with a 32" extension on a breaker bar and holder tool wedged between the EPS and it (rags between them to prevent scuffs) I lifted my engine up...left mount torn clean off... perhaps it was torn/tearing to begin with but I think "the beast bolt" took it's life while laughing at me
P.S. impact gun keeps failing to remove it. I don't have the Lisle socket though.
Don’t ever do the starter bump - I’ll leave it at that.
Do yourself a favor and buy two things: a Milwaukee high torque 1/2” impact, and an Ingersoll Rand Power socket (19mm). You will burn up other impacts - there is nothing on the market better. I struggled with burning up two cheap impacts and then Billman told me to stop screwing around and get a Milwaukee. The bolt is off in 4-6 impacts - no exaggeration. I didn’t believe it was possible or that my other wrenches loosened the bolt - so I went to the engine that was out of my old car - nothing attached to it - hit that crank bolt and in 5 seconds it was off. The engine was on a roller dolly, flywheel removed… 110,000 miles on the clock - off in 5 seconds.
You need to lower the front subframe to get at the bolt with an impact. It’s not hard - just look at clutch removal procedure - without removing all the other stuff. You might need to unbolt grounding straps and maybe a connector or two - perhaps the radiator hoses. You just need to ensure and check that you don’t stress any lines or wires, but even taking your time it ends up saving a lot more.
The best time to do it is when you have drained the radiator, changing the hoses (great time to change the water pump, idler pulleys, thermostat, belt etc), so all that crap is out of the way. A great excuse to install silicone hoses and an aftermarket radiator.
…Or, feel free to re-try the numerous home-cooked failed shortcuts that neither save time - and very likely will hurt someone or damage something. Billman is THE guy when it comes to the S2000, and I can tell you that when he gives advice… I listen and take detailed notes… and try to ask intelligent questions.
The Milwaukee impact runs about $330 USD on Amazon with the battery. It provides about 1400 lbs of breakaway torque. The Power Socket runs about $74 USD. Both a very much worth the cost in the time, pain and damage you won’t have to endure.
You should be able to get both in SA. Even if you can’t get it through Amazon. Both are readily available.
Last edited by slipstream444; 07-07-2021 at 09:00 AM.
Don’t ever do the starter bump - I’ll leave it at that.
Do yourself a favor and buy two things: a Milwaukee high torque 1/2” impact, and an Ingersoll Rand Power socket (19mm). You will burn up other impacts - there is nothing on the market better. I struggled with burning up two cheap impacts and then Billman told me to stop screwing around and get a Milwaukee. The bolt is off in 4-6 impacts - no exaggeration. I didn’t believe it was possible or that my other wrenches loosened the bolt - so I went to the engine that was out of my old car - nothing attached to it - hit that crank bolt and in 5 seconds it was off. The engine was on a roller dolly, flywheel removed… 110,000 miles on the clock - off in 5 seconds.
You need to lower the front subframe to get at the bolt with an impact. It’s not hard - just look at clutch removal procedure - without removing all the other stuff. You might need to unbolt grounding straps and maybe a connector or two - perhaps the radiator hoses. You just need to ensure and check that you don’t stress any lines or wires, but even taking your time it ends up saving a lot more.
The best time to do it is when you have drained the radiator, changing the hoses (great time to change the water pump, idler pulleys, thermostat, belt etc), so all that crap is out of the way. A great excuse to install silicone hoses and an aftermarket radiator.
…Or, feel free to re-try the numerous home-cooked failed shortcuts that neither save time - and very likely will hurt someone or damage something. Billman is THE guy when it comes to the S2000, and I can tell you that when he gives advice… I listen and take detailed notes… and try to ask intelligent questions.
The Milwaukee impact runs about $330 USD on Amazon with the battery. It provides about 1400 lbs of breakaway torque. The Power Socket runs about $74 USD. Both a very much worth the cost in the time, pain and damage you won’t have to endure.
You should be able to get both in SA. Even if you can’t get it through Amazon. Both are readily available.
I sent him my Lisle 19mm socket, essentially the same thing. It zipped off my crank pulley bolt with no issue, and realistically that was the only time I ever needed that socket, so I passed it down to my son in SA lol. We're definitely gonna get this bolt off....lol
Many many years ago when doing my Accord V6 crank pulley to my project H22A pulley to my S2000 that Lisle socket is worth it's weight in gold! It took about 5 seconds to take my crank off, easiest part of my supercharger install lol.
Struggled for over an hour with a friend today when trying to remove a SC crank pulley,
10min with a IR2235 at 145psi with zero success.
Honda tool wouldn't fit so we had to wedge the flywheel stuck and then use 3/4" breaker bar and a 5 ft pipe, even with that it took a lot of effort but it finally cracked loose.
Good luck Rolan
That sounds insane Flanders! At least you actually managed to crack it loose at the end of the day. That gives me hope lol. Did you use the heat/freeze trick?
Thanks
Don’t ever do the starter bump - I’ll leave it at that.
Do yourself a favor and buy two things: a Milwaukee high torque 1/2” impact, and an Ingersoll Rand Power socket (19mm). You will burn up other impacts - there is nothing on the market better. I struggled with burning up two cheap impacts and then Billman told me to stop screwing around and get a Milwaukee. The bolt is off in 4-6 impacts - no exaggeration. I didn’t believe it was possible or that my other wrenches loosened the bolt - so I went to the engine that was out of my old car - nothing attached to it - hit that crank bolt and in 5 seconds it was off. The engine was on a roller dolly, flywheel removed… 110,000 miles on the clock - off in 5 seconds.
You need to lower the front subframe to get at the bolt with an impact. It’s not hard - just look at clutch removal procedure - without removing all the other stuff. You might need to unbolt grounding straps and maybe a connector or two - perhaps the radiator hoses. You just need to ensure and check that you don’t stress any lines or wires, but even taking your time it ends up saving a lot more.
The best time to do it is when you have drained the radiator, changing the hoses (great time to change the water pump, idler pulleys, thermostat, belt etc), so all that crap is out of the way. A great excuse to install silicone hoses and an aftermarket radiator.
…Or, feel free to re-try the numerous home-cooked failed shortcuts that neither save time - and very likely will hurt someone or damage something. Billman is THE guy when it comes to the S2000, and I can tell you that when he gives advice… I listen and take detailed notes… and try to ask intelligent questions.
The Milwaukee impact runs about $330 USD on Amazon with the battery. It provides about 1400 lbs of breakaway torque. The Power Socket runs about $74 USD. Both a very much worth the cost in the time, pain and damage you won’t have to endure.
You should be able to get both in SA. Even if you can’t get it through Amazon. Both are readily available.
Noted. I'm not using the starter. So glad I asked here
I know about lowering the subframe. I did that when I installed my ACT clutch. Not planning to change out radiator hoses, etc but I understand why you had to do it that way just to get clearance to get the impact directly onto the crank bolt without the use of an extension.
07-04-2021, 10:20 AM
