RolanTHUNDER

Guys, why shouldn't a person resort to the starter bump method to loosen that beastly bolt? While hand cranking on it again yesterday with a 32" extension on a breaker bar and holder tool wedged between the EPS and it (rags between them to prevent scuffs) I lifted my engine up...left mount torn clean off... perhaps it was torn/tearing to begin with but I think "the beast bolt" took it's life while laughing at me
P.S. impact gun keeps failing to remove it. I don't have the Lisle socket though.

Car Analogy

The starter isn't an impact. Its applying tons of torque, just like when you use a long extension handle.

Except with the handle you are resisting the torque right at the pulley with the pulley tool.

Using the starter, the resistance tontorque is coming from the rear wheels, via brake and being in gear. That counter torque has to de transmitted through the rear axles and cv's, through the diff and diff mounts, through propshaft and its cv's, through trans and trans mount, through engine and engine mounts.

Most of those things can easily handle that amount of torque. Perhaps the rubber mounts are the most vulnerable.

The cost of the Lisle socket pales in comparison to cost of new engine mounts. Even aftermarket oe style mounts. Even the cost of an impact gun plus the socket beats engine mount cost.

Billman250

Starter bump will result is massive side loading of the crankshaft. The breakaway torque on that bolt is over 300 ft-lbs.

Use the holding tool or nothing.

RolanTHUNDER

Thanks for this comment. I needed to hear something like this.

RolanTHUNDER

Yeah so my OEM mount tore clean off. I do not think that just by cranking on it to remove the pulley bolt it tore because there must have been existing wear for years that wore it down naturally. I noticed the brown residue but it was dried up seemingly a long time ago already. As for the mounts withstanding the instant torque applied by the starter, I reckon they'll handle it just fine since the force applied is to the side (or rotating towards to the bottom) of the engine and not upwards like when I cranked on the bolt with that long extension and since the mounts are designed to be under constant compression they should hold up. I do understand your analogy though. The only way I can give this another go with hand tools is if I get my holder tool repaired (it broke the last time I used it) and then get someone to hold/pull the other way while I pull on the extension to loosen the beast... I must try the freeze bolt method again at that time. Hopefully that works. If not then I must get the Milwaukee Fuel M18 gun and Lisle (or similar) socket.

P.S. Purpose of removing the crank pulley is not for a timing chain service rather to install my supercharger's pulley

fernando.

I don't understand why this is still being discussed. I really don't.

Use the holder tool or the Matco/Lisle socket and be done with it.

There is no need to reinvent the wheel here.

Kyle

Cuz he can't get it off lol. He broke the holder tool where it's held with a breaker bar on his first attempt. He then used it again with it wedged against the eps and it still wouldn't break loose using a breaker bar and a pipe, the motor was lifting up from torn mounts. I'm going to be sending him my Lisle socket as I no longer really have a need for it; already did my crank bolt/pulley for my supercharger months ago, so it's just chilling in my box.

I will say though, using a Milwaukee M18 fuel and the Lisle socket that bolt came out on the first ugga dugga, that Milwaukee got some serious torque; enough to pull the panties off a nun.

fernando.

So not all suggestions were tried...

Kyle

He lives in South Africa, so most of the shit we can just buy on Amazon isn't as readily available there. I was the one who sent him the holder tool initially.

randomwalk101

That's very nice of you do help out a fellow member. Mad respect !