Craftsman 2-ton aluminum jack ~$200
05-10-2005, 09:02 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by candyass,May 10 2005, 08:50 PM
The craftsman jack raises so easily like 5" on the first pump. No more swweating just to reach the bottom of the car...Just get the damn jack and be done with it. I have one and it is the best i've ever owned.
. And no problems at all yet
05-11-2005, 08:52 AM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the horbor frieght jack and the craftsman jack. The Harbor Freight jack stopped working after about 6 months of use. I just got the Craftsman one and it has a very similar saddle heights. They will both work with the S2000, lowered. I would stick with the Craftsman one....
Chris
Chris
05-11-2005, 10:37 AM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Brazoria
Posts: 1,351
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the craftsman will have a 1 year limited manufacturer's defect warranty. That is 1 year replacement, as long as you have a reciept. without it, there isnt much we can do.
If the jack will be used for commercial use, then it is a 90 day replacement warranty, again only manufacturer's defects, and you must have a reciept.
it used to be that the jacks had a repair warranty (most jacks bought before the end of 2004) where we wouldn't replace the jack, rather it would get sent off for repair, customer paying shipping.
All that said, I would say perhaps the better deal is the craftsman Aluminum/Steel jack. it is a 1.5 ton jack that has alot of the strenth of steel, with some parts being aluminum to lower the weight (the main frame of the jack is steel, the shaft that actually does the lifting is aluminum) It's a low profile jack, with easy lift. It also comes with the "bumper protectors" on the handles to prevent scratches and dents. speaking of the handles, they are two peice, extra long, heavily knurled aluminum. It's a real quality peice.
best part is the price. it is usually on sale for around 99 bucks, and with the Craftsman club (free to join discount club) you can save even more.
If the jack will be used for commercial use, then it is a 90 day replacement warranty, again only manufacturer's defects, and you must have a reciept.
it used to be that the jacks had a repair warranty (most jacks bought before the end of 2004) where we wouldn't replace the jack, rather it would get sent off for repair, customer paying shipping.
All that said, I would say perhaps the better deal is the craftsman Aluminum/Steel jack. it is a 1.5 ton jack that has alot of the strenth of steel, with some parts being aluminum to lower the weight (the main frame of the jack is steel, the shaft that actually does the lifting is aluminum) It's a low profile jack, with easy lift. It also comes with the "bumper protectors" on the handles to prevent scratches and dents. speaking of the handles, they are two peice, extra long, heavily knurled aluminum. It's a real quality peice.
best part is the price. it is usually on sale for around 99 bucks, and with the Craftsman club (free to join discount club) you can save even more.
05-11-2005, 11:45 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My membership for the craftsman club is already in the works and I'm waiting to get my member number before placing my order online for the all aluminum crafstman unit. 3000 lbs is just too close to 2800 lbs so I really want the 2-ton jack.
05-11-2005, 03:22 PM
#27
Registered User
Originally Posted by Rio S2K,May 11 2005, 02:45 PM
My membership for the craftsman club is already in the works and I'm waiting to get my member number before placing my order online for the all aluminum crafstman unit. 3000 lbs is just too close to 2800 lbs so I really want the 2-ton jack.
2800 lbs with approximately 50/50 weight distribution would be closer to 1400 lbs. (high school trig was decades ago; I really don't feel like doing the arithmetic.), if you lift only one end. Now, if you can really balance the car on the jack and lift all four wheels with the jack at once...
05-11-2005, 10:14 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RedY2KS2k,May 11 2005, 03:22 PM
Do you plan on lifting all 4 wheels off the ground with the car balanced on only the jack?
2800 lbs with approximately 50/50 weight distribution would be closer to 1400 lbs. (high school trig was decades ago; I really don't feel like doing the arithmetic.), if you lift only one end. Now, if you can really balance the car on the jack and lift all four wheels with the jack at once...
2800 lbs with approximately 50/50 weight distribution would be closer to 1400 lbs. (high school trig was decades ago; I really don't feel like doing the arithmetic.), if you lift only one end. Now, if you can really balance the car on the jack and lift all four wheels with the jack at once...
BTW smartass! It's not a matter of high school trigonometry rather is a matter of high school physics where the sum of moments must equal zero for a static or stationary object. If you're lifting the car from the rear for example, the center of gravity is located square in the middle due to the 50/50 weight distribution and therefore a weight approximatley equal to 2800 lbs is acting at the point with a distance of roughly half the wheelbase since the front wheels are the point of pivot where the sum of all moments must equal zero. Since half the force or weight in this case at twice the distance(wheelbase) equals the weight times the distance(half the wheelbase) then only 1400 lbs is required to hold or sustain the weight of the car but since this is not an entirely static scenario you're obviously going to need more than 1400 lbs of force to lift the car off the ground.
