A Couple of Recommendations for Intake Manifold Insulating Gasket Installation.
03-24-2002, 06:12 AM
#1
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Twohhos and I installed Hondata intake gasket yesterday. We recommend anyone doing this to get a buddy to help; this helps get through difficult steps.
The iat sensor should be removed to better install/tighten the lower back bolt. This may be difficult to do, so have someone hold the manifold forward while pliers are used to squeeze the clip on its back half to remove it. There was not enough clearance or finger strength to remove the sensor while the manifold was in place, but the bolt could be loosened/removed with the sensor in place.
Recommend opening the predrilled hole in the Hondata gasket to allow coolant circulation at the front of the manifold. Tb and idle control coolant pathways can later be bypassed with tubing, but we thought the coolant flow and ability to bleed air in the engine through the bleed screw provided in the engine design was important, which otherwise could not be done with the pathway blocked. The amount manifold heating in allowing coolant flow in this area is negligible, imo, compared to heating of manifold in the back where the coolant outflow housing connection is. I was able to bleed a lot of air though the bleed screw.
PS: It is not necessary to remove the coolant outflow housing from the manifold to get the old gasket out. Much easier to skip that step.
The iat sensor should be removed to better install/tighten the lower back bolt. This may be difficult to do, so have someone hold the manifold forward while pliers are used to squeeze the clip on its back half to remove it. There was not enough clearance or finger strength to remove the sensor while the manifold was in place, but the bolt could be loosened/removed with the sensor in place.
Recommend opening the predrilled hole in the Hondata gasket to allow coolant circulation at the front of the manifold. Tb and idle control coolant pathways can later be bypassed with tubing, but we thought the coolant flow and ability to bleed air in the engine through the bleed screw provided in the engine design was important, which otherwise could not be done with the pathway blocked. The amount manifold heating in allowing coolant flow in this area is negligible, imo, compared to heating of manifold in the back where the coolant outflow housing connection is. I was able to bleed a lot of air though the bleed screw.
PS: It is not necessary to remove the coolant outflow housing from the manifold to get the old gasket out. Much easier to skip that step.
03-26-2002, 05:15 PM
#2
Prolene's magnetic tool-pickup also got us out of some hairy situations. Be sure to have a 10-inch socket extension and universal joint, as well, or the lower manifold bolts will be impossible to get to. The 14mm bolts on the front support bracket called for a wrench handle extension; those bastards must have been torqued to over 100 lb-ft!
Otherwise, it was a walk in the park!
Otherwise, it was a walk in the park!
04-17-2002, 10:46 AM
#4
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rasputin314
[B]...This is a VERY difficult installation for an amateur do-it-yourselfer, much more difficult than the write-up makes it seem.
[B]...This is a VERY difficult installation for an amateur do-it-yourselfer, much more difficult than the write-up makes it seem.
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