Coolant flush question
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Coolant flush question
Hi all. I have researched a lot over the past week because the previous owner used Zerex g05 in the car and I want to switch to Honda type 2. Both are HOAT so a bit of mixing shouldn’t cause problems. Since type 2 only comes 50/50, I think maybe flushing with distilled water would cause the new coolant to be too diluted? I was going to flush with type 2, costs issues aside, take off thermostat to drain more, and then replace with new fluid.
Or do I need a flush at all? I’ll not exactly sure about the mixing low-silicate with silicate free coolant part. Will mixing cause silicate to precipitate? I mixed some of the 2 in a cup as an experiment but I don’t know if that is a good test.
Or do I need a flush at all? I’ll not exactly sure about the mixing low-silicate with silicate free coolant part. Will mixing cause silicate to precipitate? I mixed some of the 2 in a cup as an experiment but I don’t know if that is a good test.
#2
Moderator
Look at the coolant in the radiator. If it is clean, and you can see the inner radiator tubes (clear/clean) then do not flush it. Drain, fill, bleed.
The S2000 engine has an ingenious grounding layout, which stops electrolysis in the coolant.
Its why an S2000 can have 150,000 miles on the original coolant, and remain spotless. Compared to other makes and models with 40k miles that are full of salty white trash.
The amount of dirty cooling systems I have found in over 3300 S2000s is zero.
The S2000 engine has an ingenious grounding layout, which stops electrolysis in the coolant.
Its why an S2000 can have 150,000 miles on the original coolant, and remain spotless. Compared to other makes and models with 40k miles that are full of salty white trash.
The amount of dirty cooling systems I have found in over 3300 S2000s is zero.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thank you for your input billman. So as long as it looks clean, it's ok to do drain and fill, which would result in some zerex g05 mixing with honda type 2?
#4
A lot of people make big mods for track, and its not uncommon for people to swap F series into other vehicles. Would be nice to know what is involved in this grounding setup to make sure its preserved in these sorts of applications.
#5
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Depends on how anal you are. You could do it twice with a little time between drain and fills for mixing. However, it is not necessary IMO. What is key, is to pay attention to the sticky in the how to section of this website, to follow Billman's procedure to perform the drain and fill with particular attention to bleed part. You need to be certain all the air is out or you set yourself up for a sudden overheat. Follow Billman's method (I have) and you will be fine.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks. I just wanted to make sure if any of the two coolants mixed, there wouldn't be any problems. Otherwise, I have gone over all the procedures and how to make sure all the air is out of the system.
#7
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You want that air coming out of the heater to be HOT not warm!
As Billman stated, if the coolant looks nice and clean, just drain and refill. The Zero G05 is a ready and quality stand in for Honda type 2. After a drain, there would be a very small amount left and whatever that is, it is comparable.
As Billman stated, if the coolant looks nice and clean, just drain and refill. The Zero G05 is a ready and quality stand in for Honda type 2. After a drain, there would be a very small amount left and whatever that is, it is comparable.
Last edited by cosmomiller; 03-25-2024 at 09:19 PM.
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#9
Look at the coolant in the radiator. If it is clean, and you can see the inner radiator tubes (clear/clean) then do not flush it. Drain, fill, bleed.
The S2000 engine has an ingenious grounding layout, which stops electrolysis in the coolant.
Its why an S2000 can have 150,000 miles on the original coolant, and remain spotless. Compared to other makes and models with 40k miles that are full of salty white trash.
The amount of dirty cooling systems I have found in over 3300 S2000s is zero.
The S2000 engine has an ingenious grounding layout, which stops electrolysis in the coolant.
Its why an S2000 can have 150,000 miles on the original coolant, and remain spotless. Compared to other makes and models with 40k miles that are full of salty white trash.
The amount of dirty cooling systems I have found in over 3300 S2000s is zero.
#10
In 35+ years of working on Honda, since the switch from the original Type 1 green-ish coolant, there's been near zero issues with corrosion in Honda cooling systems. The Type-1 coolant, in higher mileage cars, had some issues with precipitation ending up plugging radiators, causing overheating.
I have seen, when someone puts in conventional green, then issues start.
As an example, over 20 years ago, in my '99 Ford Lightning, I switched it to Honda's coolant in both the engine and intercooler cooling systems. No corrosion, and I changed it last year after 10 years.
When I bought my S2k in 2012, I did all the fluids, and just last fall, I did the coolant again, only because I wanted to change the small hoses going to the iac, throttle body, etc.
I have seen, when someone puts in conventional green, then issues start.
As an example, over 20 years ago, in my '99 Ford Lightning, I switched it to Honda's coolant in both the engine and intercooler cooling systems. No corrosion, and I changed it last year after 10 years.
When I bought my S2k in 2012, I did all the fluids, and just last fall, I did the coolant again, only because I wanted to change the small hoses going to the iac, throttle body, etc.
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