vtecjstkiktinyo

If you are reading this before attempting a compression test, I recommend using electrical tape to tape ALL parts of your tester that can spin/ back-off etc. You don't need to torque the tester threads very much at all in order to get consistent/ accurate results. the threads should have an o-ring at the business end.

Having read several of the compression test posts prior to doing the compression test on my S2K today, I still managed to get the tester stuck on the first try.

I thought I was clever when I taped the adapter so it wouldn't come apart when backing it out. Turns out I didn't tape it enough- this part was still free to spin.


It exercised it's freedom to spin as I tried to extract it to no avail. First I thought I would have to design and fab some long curved pliers. Then I though of this:


I split some 1/2 heater hose I had laying around which was just the right size to fit around the tester cable. I slid this down the tester cable until it bottomed out and over the spinning element of the cable as seen in the picture above. Fortunately I didn't have things torqued down very much at all. I pressed down against the rubber hose and twisted away hoping that friction would work its magic. I got lucky. Better to be lucky than good, as they say.

Happy wrenching and be sure to put your right foot down in the turns.






**There are many threads on this subject and I am too lazy to read them all in order to make sure this isn't covered somewhere. I skimmed and didn't see anything quite the same**

oregoncurtis

Good tip. I got my adapter stuck today too, but I had a flat head screw driver that fit perfect in the middle and allowed me to back the adapter out. I didn't even need to use a hammer like others have said.

I didn't do any taping, but i did torque the adapter onto the hose a lot tighter with a wrench and all was fine after that.

baZurk

Loctite works well also to remove a stuck adapter.