thanasis11

i torqued my pressure plate to oem specs, 25 ft.lbs. i cannot shift gears at high rpm and its very notchy at low rpm. the master and slave cylinders are new, the clutch is firm and feels solid and the fork is installed properly so i cant think of anything else. anybody knows what the pressure plate torque specs should be for competition clutch stage 2?

cdelena

Adjust the clutch rod on the pedal.

thanasis11

i adjusted that to max but its still the same

Needsmorepower!

I had the same problem with my comp stg II. Never missed a gear beforehand with oem clutch. After breakin period (1000ish miles) it seemed to go away. Every now and then it will kick me out of second. I haven't adjusted anything since install. I will try adjusting the rod a bit when I re-bleed the system next week. try and drive and shift around 4-5k for a few weeks, varying gas pedal pressure and see if after some easy driving that you can engage high rpms.

I'm running with the comp stg ii and oem ap1 flywheel. My torque specs are 25lbs on the pressure plate, 98 I believe for the flywheel bolts, and we took a decent bit of time to bleed all the air from the system. I also removed the cdv. I have a 2006.

thanasis11

Lifted the car on jack stands. Pressed the clutch and put the first gear. Revved the engine to 6,000 rpms to noticed the wheels just started turning. Is this normal? How do you check if the clutch is completely disengaging correctly?
Is this a reason for a notchy transmission at high rpms?
The clutch pressure plate was torqued to 25 ft-lbs according to Honda's manual. No loctite was used. The flywheel (9lbs) and clutch (maybe competition clutch stage 2) were removed from an AP1 engine and transmission. Flywheel was resurfaced at local machine shop and installed in AP2 engine and transmission. Master and slave cylinder from AP1 were used. After the installed the clutch was not broken in. Is this a reason for a notchy transmission?
Also can I re-torque the pressure plate without removing the transmission? Can you reach the srews from the release fork hole by removing the boot?

cdelena

Clearances change and with new components everything is thicker so it is clear you are not getting full disengagement.

I would not think the torque specs are the issue, but rather the amount of movement you are getting on the fork. I have seen just a new FD cause this problem as it may be several mils thicker than the previous. No you cannot reach any of the fasteners you are worried about until you remove the transmission.

Before doing anything drastic check the hydraulics making sure they are bled and full, and make sure the fork is fully inserted and seated. Then adjust the rod on the pedal to get the longest stroke. This normally solves this problem.