bArt2

Hi,

Now it's getting colder outside I notice that my transmission is giving me problems when it is still cold.

Somethimes it is very hard to get it into ANY gear, 1st, 2nd, ...reverse. (when the car is not moving)

If it is very cold I have to try all the gears before I can get it into one, however I don't use too much force because I don't want to damage the beast.

Went to the dealer, as it was standard to put engine oil in the transmission up to some months age, and now a transmissiom fluid became available at Honda, I had it replaced, didn't make much difference however.

When the engine is warm I don't have much troubles, however somethimes it doesn't come out of a gear as easy as it should, it's sticking a bit, even warm.

As for this sticking, I have the impression that my clutch doesn't declutch completely, it declutches at the very bottom, which allways bottered me, since my previous CRX declutched very fast on the top.

1. Does anyone have this problem also, or know what to do about it.

2. How can I adjust the clutch, and could the cold transmission problem also have to do with the clutch.

3. If the transmission has to be replaced, it should be covered by waranty I suppose, or does Honda make any problems about it.


Cu

xviper

It's most likely NOT a tranny problem. I've used my car after it has sat outside all night at -35*C. The transmission is stiff but other than that it works fine and a few minutes of warmup in neutral and it's like nothing is different. If your clutch is not disengaging fully then I can see that getting the car in gear might be a problem. On any car, if you purposely engage the clutch partially, you would have trouble getting in and out of gear. The Helm manual says nothing about clutch friction point adjustment only clutch pedal adjustment and this is done inside the car at the clutch pedal itself. This may give you a bit more "throw" when you depress the clutch. The other thing that might resolve matters is a clutch fluid bleed. You may have air or water in the system. Check the clutch fluid level first. Then do the pedal adjustment to see if you can get the engagement point to change.

bArt2

Hi,
Thanks I'm going to try this.

??? is this correct -35C, was that on the North Pole

I have this problem allready at temperatures about +5 degrees C

One more thing, where does your clutch disengage, is that also (allmost) on the bottom??

xviper

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bArt2
[B]Hi,
Thanks I'm going to try this.

Kaptain Insano

Most fluids have lower viscosities at higher temperatures. As a result, you have to let your car warm up some during cold weather to make sure all the lubricants are working at their operating temperatures.

josh3io

I strongly believe that my clutch has disengagement problems as well. I have had the 054 TSB done twice and the problem still occurs. It is also becoming increasingly difficult to take the shifter out of gear, warm or cold. I have to be fairly precise with my rev matching at the track or I will grind, I was grinding 1/3 of the shifts at the track the other day.

once i get some $$ i plan to put in spoon parts.

bArt2

That's correct, but with my previous CRX and any other car, this is also applicable, and they don't have this problem.

Anyway, I'm talking about temperatures still above freezing

What about waranty, how many miles do you have, I've got 39.000

StwoK

I have been using Red Line MT-90 in my transmission for the last 700 miles. It has never shifted better than it does now, I'm almost to the 7,000 mile mark. My S2000 is a early 2001 and I have experienced some 1st > 2nd problems. Red Line states their Synthetic MTLs contain NO reactive sulfur which will chemically wear synchros and cause a pre-mature failure. Red Line also claims to have the correct "coefficient of friction", it's not to slippery like motor oils. The "correct coefficient of friction" is perfect for rapid synchro engagement and allows for high-speed upshifting or down shifting. I have hit some of the sweetest speed shifts ever using MT-90 !!! Red Line makes 2 synthetic tranny fluids which could be used in our cars.

MTL = SAE 70W80 API GL4 gear oil with viscosities =10W30 motor oil.

MT90 = SAE 75W90 API GL4 gear oil with viscosities =10W40 motor oil. This is the one to use in the S2000's transmission.

I'm also using Red Lines 75W90 GL5+ Hypoid gear oil in the differential. This oil does contain sulfur(you can smell it), an additive for limited-slip differentials. It should not be used in manual transmisions due to its exterme slipperiness. Dino 90W Hypoid gear oil may take upto 5 minutes to warm up and start to lubricate. Most synthetics flow freely at 50 degrees below zero. Guess which one protects better? And you've been driving for 5 minutes.

Synthetics do preform better then dino, they can improve drivetrain efficiency by 5% , that's a reduction in friction which intern reduce running tempertures upto 70 degrees.

The bottom line here is that you are getting more power to the rear tires. This is one of the cheapest mods you can make that really does make a difference.

Penforhire

FYI, we have to test various automotive sensor components to -40 C, even inside-cabin items. I always crack up when I do that testing. After all, the driver's not exactly functioning HIS best at -40 C.

FormerH22a4

Is difficulty taking it out of 1st gear a clutch issue?