Coilover Install -- Please Help!
#21
I finally freed the trapped strut. I had to remove the entire lower control arm.
Is the drivers rear a hassle to do? I know it's going to be hard to maneuver around the fuel pipe (in the trunk), and you gotta take off the sway bar linkage, but other than that...
Have any of you guys had any problems with a 'trapped strut' when you did the rear? Thanks a lot for the help.
Is the drivers rear a hassle to do? I know it's going to be hard to maneuver around the fuel pipe (in the trunk), and you gotta take off the sway bar linkage, but other than that...
Have any of you guys had any problems with a 'trapped strut' when you did the rear? Thanks a lot for the help.
#22
Disconnect the fuel filler nozzle and the inside trunk mount and move that think out of the way after that you will be able to get at those nuts no problem.
I have had issues with screwed up endlinks so just unbolt the sway bar mounts from the body and it will work just fine.
Also you will need help to get the old set-up out and the new one in without disconnecting the upper control arm (you don't have to), basically need some one to stand on the rotor again to get it moved out of the way.
Also when you set-up re-attached all the hardware up front did you get the upper A-arm in place then jack up under the lower control arm before torquing the A-Arm. This will keep the bushing from binding.
I have had issues with screwed up endlinks so just unbolt the sway bar mounts from the body and it will work just fine.
Also you will need help to get the old set-up out and the new one in without disconnecting the upper control arm (you don't have to), basically need some one to stand on the rotor again to get it moved out of the way.
Also when you set-up re-attached all the hardware up front did you get the upper A-arm in place then jack up under the lower control arm before torquing the A-Arm. This will keep the bushing from binding.
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