acn684

Nice. FYI, next time just change the fluid in the CMC. Its a 15 minute job you can do yourself. Do this once every 2 weeks for maybe a month and a half and the fluids in the clutch res should be cleaned of most debris (this also causes the CMC to leak).

WarTowels

For sure. I will definitely increase the frequency I flush, especially since everything is nice and clean now. However, I think the previous owners 58,000 miles is what did it in.

-Greg

WarTowels

Nooooooooooooo!

I've barely driven 50 miles since the master cylinder replacement and I took the S out today because it's 50+ and coming back from lunch the clutch starts slipping in first, second, ect.

Couldn't be at a worse time, I have a trip coming up in a few weeks. Gah.

-Greg

WarTowels

If anyone sees this post, I could use a recommendation.

I'd like to get a supercharger at some point, so I might as well put in something a bit stronger than OEM.

I basically want to mimic the stock clutch setup as closely as possible while adding strength.


I'm thinking ACT Clutch, OEM Pressure Plate, Lightened Flywheel?

-Greg

WarTowels

Well I've put about 8,000 miles on the clutch swap now.

OEM bearings
ACT HD Clutch
ACT pressure plate
Prolite flywheel

At first, it was phenomenal. The caught super low and felt great. Barely any more effort was required, it felt like the stock clutch but with a much lower engagement point. That was the first 500 miles or so.

I've since put on around 8k+ and I absolutely hate the clutch setup now. It feels absolutely nothing like it did when I first got it.

It requires more effort now, makes a squeak when I engage the clutch in neutral and feels "notchy" all the way up. The first 2" of travel are one notch and then after that the rest feels like it has resistance going up. Not smooth at all.

Also the engagement point has gone from near the bottom to back at the top. Barely 2" of clutch travel are necessary for shifting now.

I was very easy on the clutch during break in, shifting as smooth and as low in the RPM as possible. Most of the miles I've put on are highway.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

-Towels

VinceFriday

Could just be spit-balling here; when i bought my car, i believe it "recently" had a fresh clutch (stage 4 comp). I noticed on the way home that the clutch squeaked when being depressed. i sort of just dealt with this for many many months, along with the notchiness in the pedal. ( i felt the same sort of notches you do. ) I sanded and polished the slave but sadly, the squeak and notchy pedal were still there...albeit better.

I then read on here that someone said to grease the clutch fork that touches the T/O. Well what do you know, i look up in there and the sonofabitch was dry as a bone and as rusty as a chevy! I got a paint brush, dislocated it out of its joint and went to town greasing everything. (through the slave cyl. hole) Im going to assume that whatever grease the shop used (if any) wasn't up to par and burned off, or they forgot.

WarTowels

Could you elaborate a bit on the method you used?

If I understand correctly (I haven't done much clutch work) I would take out the slave cylinder (already polished) and remove the boot there and then grease up the fork inside?

I was so happy with the clutch and it's depressing how much I hate it now, would love to fix it.

(Basically the whole system is new, all new bearings, new master cylinder (old slave, but polished the 'nipple' on it off) and then of course all new clutch parts.)

-Towels

WarTowels

Probably won't have a chance till Friday to take a look at it. While I'm thinking about it this probably could explain the notchiness, but I'm still somewhat concerned why my engagement point has risen so high so fast, this was not a trait I was expecting...

james0933

Do you use Honda urea grease?

WarTowels

I didn't use anything as I has a local shop do the install.

-Greg