S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Clutch Sound

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Old 08-02-2020, 10:43 AM
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Yes, I called several shops and said I had already done a compression check and would like you to do a leak down. They flat out lied, it was pretty obvious that their version of a leak down was just a compression check. They clearly had no idea what a leak down test even is and don't have the testing tools to perform it.

Every time I have gotten a leak down, the shop has always told me via a print out the percentage of leakdown on each cylinder, just like ones does for compression.

The print out is simply them typing in the numbers. I have received this EVERY SINGLE TIME in the past.

It does appear the valve adjustment raised the compression on #3, so the engine is healthy, no worries there, thankfully!!

Mounts have been verified several times at this point, and they look perfect (I was even there when they took me under the car and used a bar to push on the engine, etc, but now the shop is now telling me that all S2000s do this to some degree The story seems to change day by day. First, they said it was clutch, then they blamed the engine shaking b/c of too tight of valves, and now they say it's normal. I have already bought mounts and will be putting them on as I am left with no choice.



Old 08-02-2020, 10:48 AM
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I will say again, that most shops I called said they don't have the tools/kit to even do a leak down, and the ones that did, pretty much told me there is zero point in doing one as it doesn't really help troubleshoot. They all said almost the same thing--"low compression can leak past the piston or from the valves. A leak down just shows the leak, not where it is as you would have to hear it. I called quite a bit of place in the great LA too.

The shop from the recorded video, however, said no problem, we can do a leak down test and find the issue, so I went with them. It was very clear I had already done a compression check and I was to pay for a leakdown. Luckily, he gave me my keys back, and I didn't pay anything, and the review will be going up shortly. He was clearly embarrassed he didn't know how to perform a leakdown, so he got rude.
Old 08-02-2020, 12:08 PM
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Whatever. None of it makes any sense to me whatsoever. Lots of flailing around with hostility and anger thrown in. It doesn't get anyone anywhere.
Enjoy your S.
Old 08-02-2020, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rpg51
Whatever. None of it makes any sense to me whatsoever. Lots of flailing around with hostility and anger thrown in. It doesn't get anyone anywhere.
Enjoy your S.
Agreed, none of it makes sense. I asked to see the test kit/tool which shows the compression and leak down gauge and of course, he comes back with the mechanic holding the compression gauge, not the leakdown one.

This shop should have been honest and said we don't perform leakdown, only compression, but instead they suckered me in, and then got hostile with me. I wish I would have recorded the phone conversation. Every time, I asked him what the leakdown showed, he ignored my question, and kept on saying come get your car, nothing is wrong.

When I went to the last shop, they showed me the dual gauge and verified when they do compression, they also do leak down.
Old 08-02-2020, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101
Don't replace one coil get them as a set. Non dbw ap2 coils are shared with K20 models. Economy of scale will lead to cheaper products instead of one offs like the ap1 coils.
But that doesn't explain why Honda and aftermarket suppliers don't just combine to one PN for all models.

That would be adding more volume to one part type, right? If AP1's could ALSO just go with K series coils...then you get an even cheaper part.

There's gotta be something different about AP1 coils.

Anyway....in a pinch, I have used my MY07's coilpack in my AP1. It worked just fine.

Again, I have no idea wtf the difference is for the coils thru the years. But there's a difference.
Old 08-03-2020, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by B serious
Anyway....in a pinch, I have used my MY07's coilpack in my AP1. It worked just fine.

Again, I have no idea wtf the difference is for the coils thru the years. But there's a difference.
Except for a short term emergency situation, I'm using ap1 coils in my ap1 S2k. For the time being anyway, Makes me too nervous about potential long term issues not knowing the difference in the specs.
Old 08-07-2020, 01:49 PM
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New motor mounts installed, all shaking/chattering/noises gone.

Makes me wonder what I am missing from the transmission mount
Old 08-08-2020, 03:53 AM
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Sounds like you guessed right. Glad its all sorted now. Enjoy!
Old 08-10-2020, 06:02 AM
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I do get the same rattling noise when slowly getting off the clutch when crawling at low speeds.
Do you think it was all related to your engine mounts or should I be looking at coils as well?
Old 08-11-2020, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by nubbel
I do get the same rattling noise when slowly getting off the clutch when crawling at low speeds.
Do you think it was all related to your engine mounts or should I be looking at coils as well?
It is completely normal in a manual transmission (especially with a low tq engine) to experience some shaking/rattling when crawling at low speed/rpm when slowly releasing the clutch. If the RPM is dropping below idle rpm when letting out the clutch like that, then the car will be near stall and you will feel a lot of that. So unless it is a lot worse than "normal" for the car then there is likely nothing wrong. Give it a bit more gas when letting off the clutch and that will help some.

A bad coil that would cause this should also show up in other situations, like very high RPM pulls, etc.

You can visually inspect your motor mounts. If they are not looking cracked like the rubber is dried out and there are no tears, they are likely fine.
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