Clutch Slipping - MY00
#1
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Thread Starter
Clutch Slipping - MY00
After doing a lot of searches, it appears I may know the diagnosis but figured I'd ask anyway before breaking my back in the driveway doing a clutch replacement on stands.
I recently purchased my AP1 and not a darn thing was touched (minus religious oil changes) for its 89k miles. So I replaced every fluid and a full tune up. I've done (3) clutch master "turkey basters" and refills so far as the fluid was real black. However, on this last one, after a couple weeks, the clutch started slipping in every gear on hard acceleration. Even 35mph in 6th gear revs, then catches on hard acceleration. And when taking off in 1st, it catches sometimes and other times it'll act up. Also getting fairly decent clutch burning smell.
While adjusting the clutch rod (didn't help at all for what it's worth) it appears the clutch master cylinder is weeping quite a bit (carpet isn't wet however) and the clutch pedal bracket has thick black fluid on it. So my question is, would a bad CMC cause this clutch slippage or am I just delaying the inevitable of a full clutch replacement at this point?
I recently purchased my AP1 and not a darn thing was touched (minus religious oil changes) for its 89k miles. So I replaced every fluid and a full tune up. I've done (3) clutch master "turkey basters" and refills so far as the fluid was real black. However, on this last one, after a couple weeks, the clutch started slipping in every gear on hard acceleration. Even 35mph in 6th gear revs, then catches on hard acceleration. And when taking off in 1st, it catches sometimes and other times it'll act up. Also getting fairly decent clutch burning smell.
While adjusting the clutch rod (didn't help at all for what it's worth) it appears the clutch master cylinder is weeping quite a bit (carpet isn't wet however) and the clutch pedal bracket has thick black fluid on it. So my question is, would a bad CMC cause this clutch slippage or am I just delaying the inevitable of a full clutch replacement at this point?
#4
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The CMC and fluid are there only to disengage the clutch. If there's some sort of fluid blockage that's preventing the slave or master cyl from retracting...that'd be the only semi-direct way that the hydraulic system would be to blame for clutch slippage.
The clutch is mechanically clamped together by its pressure plate springs. If the springs are weakened or broken....or if the plate/disk/flywheel are worn/lubricated/glazed, the clutch will slip.
At 89K, its not totally unusual for the clutch to start slipping.
But start with pedal freeplay. You want about 1/4 - 1/2" before the pedal (and ultimately the CMC rod) starts to disengage the clutch.
Disengage means to push the pedal down and have the clutch disconnect the driveline.
Engage means to have the clutch pedal up...and the clutch is transmitting power to the driveline.
The clutch is mechanically clamped together by its pressure plate springs. If the springs are weakened or broken....or if the plate/disk/flywheel are worn/lubricated/glazed, the clutch will slip.
At 89K, its not totally unusual for the clutch to start slipping.
But start with pedal freeplay. You want about 1/4 - 1/2" before the pedal (and ultimately the CMC rod) starts to disengage the clutch.
Disengage means to push the pedal down and have the clutch disconnect the driveline.
Engage means to have the clutch pedal up...and the clutch is transmitting power to the driveline.
#5
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Adjusted pedal to zero free play (or at least what I think it means) and still slips real bad. Guess it's time to pony up for a new ACT-OEM disk combo. Can't believe it went out without a bit of warning.
#6
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....
If you don't have 1/4" or so of dead pedal ("freeplay"), your clutch will slip.
The TIGHTER your freeplay adjustment, the higher the pedal engagement point.
If your clutch is slipping, and you're trying to rule out freeplay, you would want to adjust it to have MORE freeplay (not less) and then re-test.
If you don't have 1/4" or so of dead pedal ("freeplay"), your clutch will slip.
The TIGHTER your freeplay adjustment, the higher the pedal engagement point.
If your clutch is slipping, and you're trying to rule out freeplay, you would want to adjust it to have MORE freeplay (not less) and then re-test.
#7
Given the fact that its slipping in 6th but catching once your hard accelerating, makes me think it is in fact the clutch itself that is worn out. Also, the fact that you got the car with that clutch, than proceeded to put 89k on it, means the clutch most likely has more than 90k on it. If it's been driven on spiritedly, I think you're just going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new one. We have great pricing on ACT, Exedy, and CM. Many people do the oem clutch disc, ACT pressure plate, and a lightweight flywheel.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...7678&pid=10026
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...7678&pid=10026
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#8
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Thread Starter
....
If you don't have 1/4" or so of dead pedal ("freeplay"), your clutch will slip.
The TIGHTER your freeplay adjustment, the higher the pedal engagement point.
If your clutch is slipping, and you're trying to rule out freeplay, you would want to adjust it to have MORE freeplay (not less) and then re-test.
If you don't have 1/4" or so of dead pedal ("freeplay"), your clutch will slip.
The TIGHTER your freeplay adjustment, the higher the pedal engagement point.
If your clutch is slipping, and you're trying to rule out freeplay, you would want to adjust it to have MORE freeplay (not less) and then re-test.
With that said, any chance the ACT H021 PP ever drops below $359?
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Ap1dre (06-23-2023)
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Ap1dre (06-23-2023)
#10
Did you end up doing this on jack stands? How was the job? I have changed a couple of clutches before on different cars and can see that I'll have to do this job at some point in the future on s2k.