jbotstein1

I have never dumped my clutch before, but last night a Ferrari F355 revved at me at a light. I couldnt resist, and I revved back and dropped it at about 5000. The tires didnt spin, but the engine revved up to 9000 so I shifted to second and the engine revved again to 9000, the car didnt even move, and my foot was off the clutch. This was followed by a burnt smell for 20 minutes, and again when I drove two hours later. I took it in to Honda this morning, and the tech said it felt fine. I have 27000 miles, dual spugen ti, AEM CAI, and VAFC. Did I cause permanent damage or just accelerate normal wear and tear?? Thanks so much for all of y'alls help.
Jonathan

mxt_77

As long as the clutch is functioning properly now, you most likely just accellerated normal wear & tear (though you may have glazed the clutch a bit, which might cause it to slip even more until the glazing wears off).

If you're going to race:
1) You should do it at the track.
2) If you're going to dump the clutch, dump it hard... don't try to ease out. That's most likely what caused it to slip like that. Our clutches aren't very strong, and they'll just slip if you let them out too slowly above ~4K RPM.
3) Don't race a F355... you'll probably lose anyway.

"Ask any racer... any real racer... it doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. Winning's winning."

jbotstein1

Yea, but his hot girlfriend waved at me while he was revving, and to hear his engine scream was well worth it. I wasnt trying to win, and he knew it, I think he was just being nice and showing off which I appreciated very much.

02spas2k

when i was bone stock the same thing happened to me. the stock clutch i think not that good or it is the pressure plate. i got a act with pressure plate and love it.

jbotstein1

how much is one of those??

jarod

Next time he pulls up with his gf again, make a bet that whoever wins gets his gf for the night. Then have her stand outside at the starting point. Rev your engine and when he takes off, stay there and ask her to hop in and take her out!

/commercial

slipstream444

Are you the original owner? Just for note, newer slave cylinders are designed to slip the clutch if you dump it - to save the diff. If your car is used and the dealer replaced the rear end due to the previous owner destroying it, they more than likely replaced the slave cylinder with the new design, to prevent the owner from destroying the diff again (according to my service mgr).
My clutch slipped (identically to yours) in my '03 (late year). Now, I didn't drop the clutch at 5K (more like 3500-4000 RPM), and it wasn't an F355 (my buddies G35), but it did the same thing. I bought my car new, and it came with the dual-valved slave cylinder (that the '04s come with). For note, my transmission was replace not long ago (1-2 shift problem) and I changed out the clutch and flywheel when they did it. The disk was okay, but the pressure plate and flywheel had burn marks on them. Another problem is that the pressure plate was not engaging properly (only the inner radius was grabbing. I also noticed a pronounced squeel (momentary) when I shifted hard into other gears. The new clutch (ACT pressure plate ... stock disc) and the Comptech flywheel are great.

jbotstein1

I bought the car with 8000 miles, and now I have 27000. The dealer didnt mention any work done to the rear end or anything. I'm really just concerned about whether this cltch is gonna go soon or not as I only have 9000 miles left on warranty. The Honda tech told me it was 1500 for a new clutch. How much is that ACT and Comptech setup??

hpark

if one was to get a stronger clutch, how will this affect the rest of the drivetrain? If the clutch is stronger, won't something else down the line have to take the abuse from a clutch drop? just wondering...

slipstream444

One of the best prices I found was going with Comptech (ACT) through Rick's site. You save some $ over going through Comptech directly. While the flywheel is not as light as Todas, it can be resurfaced where Todas cannot. It's cheaper as well.
~9.2 lbs vs 8.7 lbs (Toda). Noticable difference in engine acceleration. The clutch engages much more positively and the pedal effort is higher. I find my shifts to be more accurate with this setup.
You can get good prices on the stock disk and throwout bearing in the marketplace here. There is no reason to go with another disk. Most people agree that the stock disk is best. If you change out the clutch, ALWAYS change out the throwout bearing and pressure plate bolts. If you change out the flywheel, change out the flywheel bolts as well. The Comptech flywheel came with the pilot bearing installed too. Todas does not.
http://www.ricks2k.com/products/comptech1.php