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Clutch replacement.. DIY? aftermarket winners?

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Old 01-15-2005, 09:10 PM
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Wow, I've never seen bolt heads like the ones on the pressure plate before.

In cmnsnse's write up he calls them "12 point". Does that mean a conventional socket that has 12 points? I guess so, but I've go these bloody Metrinch ones that have 6 lobes that bite on the flat of the bolt. Great idea and avoids burring old nuts and bolts, but a real pain because they only hold in 60 degree increments (rather than 30 degrees with conventional sockets) so they are a pain in tight spaces.

I guess I can add a socket set to my shoppong list tomorrow.
Old 01-22-2005, 10:30 PM
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Finished mine. Took the better part of last Sunday and then a good deal of Friday night to do it but then I had to remove the SC as well to install the aftercooler.

I read through the instruction above and they were extremely helpful. I used the 'drop the back of engine' method.

Aligning the friction plate was a doddle because the stock pressure plate has access at three points so you can align the fritction plate and the face of the pressure plate with a flat bled screwdriver and it will be centered.

I took reassembly pretty cautiously. Once I had it all together took it for a test drive, and immediately stalled it. I wasn't used to such an abrupt clutch.

The rebuilt OEM with heavy duty springs and organic friction plate is perfect. Now, can anybody tell me what the run in procedure is?
Old 01-23-2005, 04:03 AM
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That was the best DIY Clutch Replacement write-up. I want to thank all you guys who had a hand in on this. You guys are just amazing .
Old 01-23-2005, 06:47 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by AusS2000,Jan 23 2005, 01:30 AM
Now, can anybody tell me what the run in procedure is?
It is the same as when the car was new. Just drive it easily for ~500 miles (not 500 highway miles).
Old 01-23-2005, 02:28 PM
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I'd forgotten the original run in procedure. It was nearly 5 years ago.
Old 09-16-2005, 08:56 PM
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bump very good guide....

So pretty much lower the subframe?

My mechanic has been having problems reaching the top left bell housing transmission bolt?
Old 01-13-2006, 03:28 PM
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Good write-up, cdelena! Wish I found this old thread before my DIY clutch job this past summer.
Old 01-13-2006, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Vladimir L,Sep 16 2005, 08:56 PM
bump very good guide....

So pretty much lower the subframe?

My mechanic has been having problems reaching the top left bell housing transmission bolt?
As mentioned by others, it's possible to just lower the rear of the engine to get access to the upper tranny bolts. If you do, make sure you don't put too much stress on the engine mounts. With the multiple clutch jobs in my miata, I always just tilted the engine, but even today I still can't conclude how much of this act contributed to the broken engine mounts on that car.
Old 01-13-2006, 07:56 PM
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A 3' half inch drive extension bar with a 17mm impact swivel (not using the air gun but a ratchet) makes the 3 upper bolts a breeze.
Old 08-09-2006, 01:38 AM
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whats the torque specs on the PP and flywheel??? I didnt see them anywhere.

thanks,

juan


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