Clutch Problem
12-04-2006, 05:33 PM
#21
Moderator
A rusted disc spline will cause disc drag, gear grinding, and trouble engaging any gear from a stop. It will NOT cause the symptoms you are having.
The most common point where a lack of lube causes YOUR symptoms is where the fingers of the fork contact the bearing. This is one of the most commonly missed lube points.
The second is the ball end of the slave where it sits in the fork. Seems you have done this already.
There is also a cavity on the inner surface of the TO bearing that should be filled with grease. This will provide lifetime lubrication between the inner bearing surface and the collar of the trans that is moves on.
I've had clutches with nasty crunchiness (is that a word?
) cured by lubing the fork finger tips.
Pull the slave, disengage the fork, reach in there with a coat hanger with a small tic-tac sized blob of grease. Lube the finger points that contact the TO bearing.
If that fails, and the other points were lubed properly, it could very well be the pressure plate.
Let us know
The most common point where a lack of lube causes YOUR symptoms is where the fingers of the fork contact the bearing. This is one of the most commonly missed lube points.
The second is the ball end of the slave where it sits in the fork. Seems you have done this already.
There is also a cavity on the inner surface of the TO bearing that should be filled with grease. This will provide lifetime lubrication between the inner bearing surface and the collar of the trans that is moves on.
I've had clutches with nasty crunchiness (is that a word?
) cured by lubing the fork finger tips.Pull the slave, disengage the fork, reach in there with a coat hanger with a small tic-tac sized blob of grease. Lube the finger points that contact the TO bearing.
If that fails, and the other points were lubed properly, it could very well be the pressure plate.
Let us know
12-04-2006, 07:04 PM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for help Billman. I'm almost certain that i didn't lube the TOB which would explain why its rough... but i dont know why the clutch is slipping..
As it is today my car is a few suburbs away on the side of the road, can't drive it becuasse it slips that much now..
Will pull the clutch out tomorrow night and go from there..
Im almost certain that its a dodgy pressure plate..
As it is today my car is a few suburbs away on the side of the road, can't drive it becuasse it slips that much now..
Will pull the clutch out tomorrow night and go from there..
Im almost certain that its a dodgy pressure plate..
12-06-2006, 02:45 AM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok.. 3 hours later, its 10:41pm and i just pulled out the clutch.. the disc and pressure plate look 100%!!! the issue is where the throw out bearing slides over the input shaft of the transmission. Since i never put grease on that spot it rubs and grabs along that shaft pretty badly.
I'm assuming that when the parts heated up it would have gotten worse and grabbed more.
I plan to clean the parts, lightly rub it down and GREASE up everything!!! lol
Ill try to get pics up tomorrow.
Thanks all.. hopefully this will fix my problem!!
I'm assuming that when the parts heated up it would have gotten worse and grabbed more.
I plan to clean the parts, lightly rub it down and GREASE up everything!!! lol
Ill try to get pics up tomorrow.
Thanks all.. hopefully this will fix my problem!!
12-06-2006, 01:44 PM
#25
Moderator
Kewl...some "trans out of the car" tips...
There's a recessed cavity in the inside surface of the TO bearing. FILL IT so the grease is level with the inner bearing surface. This will keep it lubed for life.
Clean the splines on the trans. Put a light coat of grease on the splines. Test fit the disc on the trans. The lightest snag will cause gear grind. Make sure it floats on and off smoothly.
On the fork: when the fork is installed in the trans, the cross shaft remains still, and the fork turns on it. Spray some thin grease in the fork shaft, and work it till it come through the other side.
TO bearing fork contact area: put a thin coat of grease 360 degrees around the face of this surface.
There's a recessed cavity in the inside surface of the TO bearing. FILL IT so the grease is level with the inner bearing surface. This will keep it lubed for life.
Clean the splines on the trans. Put a light coat of grease on the splines. Test fit the disc on the trans. The lightest snag will cause gear grind. Make sure it floats on and off smoothly.
On the fork: when the fork is installed in the trans, the cross shaft remains still, and the fork turns on it. Spray some thin grease in the fork shaft, and work it till it come through the other side.
TO bearing fork contact area: put a thin coat of grease 360 degrees around the face of this surface.
12-06-2006, 02:44 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the advice Billman!.. there was not a spec of grease in that cavity on the T/O bearing.. learnt my lesson!!
Here is the pics of the damage done to the throw out bearing guide..
You can see where it was rubbing and grabbing...
The other side..
With the bearing in place...
I started to rub back the guide to try and bring it back to original for, but ended up ordering a new part from Honda.. ($50) This should solve my problem!!!
Wish me luck
Here is the pics of the damage done to the throw out bearing guide..
You can see where it was rubbing and grabbing...
The other side..
With the bearing in place...
I started to rub back the guide to try and bring it back to original for, but ended up ordering a new part from Honda.. ($50) This should solve my problem!!!
Wish me luck
