clutch problem?
#11
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Originally Posted by billman250,Oct 9 2005, 06:49 AM
All too true.
The thing that most people don't understand is there are two different "freeplays" in the clutch. The first one you feel is slop in the linkage. 99% of it should be removed.
The second is the play built into the master hydraulics, and is normal.
EVEN IF you took 101% of play out of the fisrt, it would not cause the TO to engage. Because the fluid channel is open in the master. But keep it to minimal.
I set all s2k linkage (almost 200) to zero freeplay. The 2nd freeplay always remains.
The thing that most people don't understand is there are two different "freeplays" in the clutch. The first one you feel is slop in the linkage. 99% of it should be removed.
The second is the play built into the master hydraulics, and is normal.
EVEN IF you took 101% of play out of the fisrt, it would not cause the TO to engage. Because the fluid channel is open in the master. But keep it to minimal.
I set all s2k linkage (almost 200) to zero freeplay. The 2nd freeplay always remains.
#12
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Use light pressure from one finger, while looking under the dash with a flashlight. Look where the clutch rod goes into the master. Push real light, you'll see play in the rod, floating around in the back of the master (freeplay 1) push farther, you'll see the master piston move in a little and stop (freeplay 2)
#13
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OK that explains it. That difference in pressure wasnt so noticable to me, but now that you mentioned, I was able to adjust the pedal to rest before the change in pressure. Thank you!
I do have one more question. The rod is still pushed in just a slightly bit, is this correct?
I do have one more question. The rod is still pushed in just a slightly bit, is this correct?
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