clutch problem?
#1
clutch problem?
i recently got my clutch replaced with the act hd pp, oem disc, and toda fw. im taking it easy for the first 500 miles but i have couple problems i want to solve.
(also had my tranny fluid replaced with gm syncromesh fm and fresh clutch fluid)
1. when coming to a stop, say 3rd gear, and i step on the clutch pedal to pull the shifter out of gear into neutral, there's resistence and vibration. it feels like im trying to pull it out of gear without stepping on the clutch. it's fine if i pull the shifter out right after i step on the clutch or when the car is almost at a stop. but anytime in between i cant get the shifter to come out. it'll come out with a slight tug but im scared that i might mess up something. im stepping on the clutch all the way also.
2. it seems like after the clutch job my tranny feels more notchy. it's hard to get into 1st gear sometimes when at a light (when im ready to take off). and the other foward gears arent as smooth to engage. it's does this randomly. i bleed the clutch twice, second time at my friends shop with a power bleed kinda thing with a air hose.
(also had my tranny fluid replaced with gm syncromesh fm and fresh clutch fluid)
1. when coming to a stop, say 3rd gear, and i step on the clutch pedal to pull the shifter out of gear into neutral, there's resistence and vibration. it feels like im trying to pull it out of gear without stepping on the clutch. it's fine if i pull the shifter out right after i step on the clutch or when the car is almost at a stop. but anytime in between i cant get the shifter to come out. it'll come out with a slight tug but im scared that i might mess up something. im stepping on the clutch all the way also.
2. it seems like after the clutch job my tranny feels more notchy. it's hard to get into 1st gear sometimes when at a light (when im ready to take off). and the other foward gears arent as smooth to engage. it's does this randomly. i bleed the clutch twice, second time at my friends shop with a power bleed kinda thing with a air hose.
#3
Make sure the clutch bleed was done right. There's a trick to it right at the end. Go the FAQs at the top of Technical to find the DIY thread on a clutch bleed.
Besides this, something else is not right. Pulling "out" of any gear, into neutral should be easy even without the use of the clutch as long as the tranny is not loaded due to acceleration or deceleration.
Is the tranny filled to the proper level? Maybe your tranny doesn't like GMSM-FM.
Besides this, something else is not right. Pulling "out" of any gear, into neutral should be easy even without the use of the clutch as long as the tranny is not loaded due to acceleration or deceleration.
Is the tranny filled to the proper level? Maybe your tranny doesn't like GMSM-FM.
#4
Originally Posted by xviper,Oct 6 2005, 10:40 PM
Make sure the clutch bleed was done right. There's a trick to it right at the end. Go the FAQs at the top of Technical to find the DIY thread on a clutch bleed.
Besides this, something else is not right. Pulling "out" of any gear, into neutral should be easy even without the use of the clutch as long as the tranny is not loaded due to acceleration or deceleration.
Is the tranny filled to the proper level? Maybe your tranny doesn't like GMSM-FM.
Besides this, something else is not right. Pulling "out" of any gear, into neutral should be easy even without the use of the clutch as long as the tranny is not loaded due to acceleration or deceleration.
Is the tranny filled to the proper level? Maybe your tranny doesn't like GMSM-FM.
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#8
I have found that the clutch pedal needed to be adjusted on my car. Insure the pedal is adjusted properly and is fully disengaging the clutch. I know in theory the hydraulic clutch does not need adjustment, but I have seen two that did not operate properly until the pedal was adjusted.
#9
Moderator
Originally Posted by cdelena,Oct 9 2005, 10:43 AM
I have found that the clutch pedal needed to be adjusted on my car. Insure the pedal is adjusted properly and is fully disengaging the clutch. I know in theory the hydraulic clutch does not need adjustment, but I have seen two that did not operate properly until the pedal was adjusted.
The thing that most people don't understand is there are two different "freeplays" in the clutch. The first one you feel is slop in the linkage. 99% of it should be removed.
The second is the play built into the master hydraulics, and is normal.
EVEN IF you took 101% of play out of the fisrt, it would not cause the TO to engage. Because the fluid channel is open in the master. But keep it to minimal.
I set all s2k linkage (almost 200) to zero freeplay. The 2nd freeplay always remains.