Silver_Bullet_S

One more question Billman... Do you only recommend doing the clutch interlock bypass mod w the ACT PP? Should it be done with any other PP or just whats considered to be a heavy duty PP? Thanks again.

chubbys2k

To buying real honda parts on ebay or amazon, i would suggest messaging the seller about the part to see if its a genuine part. Also i would look at what else hes selling to get a general idea of what he sells. Obviously if hes selling alot of no name brand parts, i would look elsewhere. The guy i bought mine on ebay from was a pawn shop. Hope this helps save a good amount of money!

Jah2000

Is the rear main seal hard to install? Any DIY on it (for reference/info on it)?

How much should a mechanic/shop charge extra for an additional service of replacing the rear main seal too? Or, how many extra hours service for the additional rear main seal service?

I assume it shouldn't be that much more...since the tranny would already be removed (the main labor) during a clutch install, correct?

Silver_Bullet_S

sounds like a good idea, thanks.

Silver_Bullet_S

When I was a master tech at my local honda dealership i think we'd charge around $600-$800 labor for a tranny job but that was like 10 years ago and we almost never had any S2k's come in. This is why I always use this forum to get answers specifically about the S2k.

Pulling the tranny is not the most complicated job, but being that it's a rwd car it's not as easy a pulling a fwd tranny.

Any good shop or dealership shouldn't charge you anything extra for replacing the rear main seal if they already have the tranny off as it's pretty easy to install. and they should have recommended you to replace it anyway if they're doing a tranny job.

steven88

Before I bought all my parts for my clutch, I researched about the rear main seal since I'm going to have the trans off, and found this thread.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/106...in-seals-fail/

It basically states don't replace rear main seal unless it's already leaking or the mechanic is confident in doing the work. This includes Billman250 and a few other reputable forum members.

I ended up not ordering the seal and installing my clutch as is.

Slowcrash_101

If it's cracking it will leak, don't take a chance. It's pretty fool proof to install with some pvc piping. Note the depth of the old one, mark where the seal and crank meet with a sharpie, then remove with a pick or machine screw, then drive the new one until you just see the mark you made.

This one has to be oem, non oem ones don't have a metal rib on the engine side of the seal. It's there to keep the seal from expanding at high rpms.

Jah2000

My previous 4cyl Tacoma with 117k miles started to get moist and slighty leak from the rear main seal (though my previous cars before that never had a rear main seal leak). But, I think it's smart/better to replace it for preventative measures since the tranny is already out. Especially since my MY03 has 98k miles (relatively high). Although not a common issue at all from what I've read; I bet it'll leak or get moist sooner or later within the next 100k miles.

riceball777

The best clutch money can buy is the science of speed twin disc. It will hold and amount of power you make and will hold way more power than the transmission can handel. Plus it will drive as good as stock and the pedel is as soft as stock. That's what I run now. But I did run the act hdss clutch for many year at the 500+whp and 400wtq level with out any issues. And the act hdss also drive very good like stick just with a heavier pedal.

All single disc puck clutches drive like crap.

Fierc3

How many miles do you have on your twin disk? When I ask'd SOS about it, they said it wouldn't be a good choice for a street car, due to extra wear from possible stop & go traffic.