clutch pieces and parts.
#1
clutch pieces and parts.
I know this is going to seem kind of boring to some of you, but I'm hoping for some help....
My new 06 lbp has been having problems when I sit in traffic for a bit or when I shift in VTEC. When I'm stuck in traffic, second gear and third gear seem to take a bit to engage, and I can hear the rpms climb without acceleration. Also, when shifting in VTEC as mentioned, if I shift slowly I can engage the next gear with no (or little) issue, but when shifting faster the rpms are high for about 1 second following the shift and then drop to continue acceleration. My main problem gears are 2 into 3.
I've tried some tips about putting the car in 5th at around 32mph and mashing the gas, no noticeable slip.
Not sure what other tests I can run?
I was told about the c.d.v. in the ap2, my old car never slipped at all (85K miles) the new one, has 63001 as of today and has had this problem since I picked it up...
Any thoughts on that topic?
Secondly. If I'm just going to say screw worrying about it and buy a new clutch. I plan on teaching myself, and having a buddy (or a few) help me install the new one. What parts do I need to/ should I buy?
I plan on sticking with OEM as I've only heard good things about our clutch assembly and well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I plan on keeping the car under 400 whp.
Thanks for all your time and patience.
My new 06 lbp has been having problems when I sit in traffic for a bit or when I shift in VTEC. When I'm stuck in traffic, second gear and third gear seem to take a bit to engage, and I can hear the rpms climb without acceleration. Also, when shifting in VTEC as mentioned, if I shift slowly I can engage the next gear with no (or little) issue, but when shifting faster the rpms are high for about 1 second following the shift and then drop to continue acceleration. My main problem gears are 2 into 3.
I've tried some tips about putting the car in 5th at around 32mph and mashing the gas, no noticeable slip.
Not sure what other tests I can run?
I was told about the c.d.v. in the ap2, my old car never slipped at all (85K miles) the new one, has 63001 as of today and has had this problem since I picked it up...
Any thoughts on that topic?
Secondly. If I'm just going to say screw worrying about it and buy a new clutch. I plan on teaching myself, and having a buddy (or a few) help me install the new one. What parts do I need to/ should I buy?
I plan on sticking with OEM as I've only heard good things about our clutch assembly and well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I plan on keeping the car under 400 whp.
Thanks for all your time and patience.
#2
Moderator
The heavy flywheel is causing your issues. It demands special clutch/throttle timing, and you can adjust to it. I see this regularly. I can go into more detail about timing if needed.
Do not pull the CDV unless you change flywheels.
Use an oem disc (FROM HONDA, not an ebay equivalent) at all costs, no matter what PP you run. ACT PP is a great choice, but will require a whole new set of special techniques when coupled with Forced Induction as to not cause thrust washer failure and engine damage.
The best setup for ultimate drivability and reliability would be:
Oem disc
oem pp (you could likely re-use yours)
oem bearings
AP1 flywheel, combined with CDV removal.
If you used to have an ap1, the car will behave just like your old car and you will notice it instantly as you wont have the "rpm hang" that all ap2s have.
Do not pull the CDV unless you change flywheels.
Use an oem disc (FROM HONDA, not an ebay equivalent) at all costs, no matter what PP you run. ACT PP is a great choice, but will require a whole new set of special techniques when coupled with Forced Induction as to not cause thrust washer failure and engine damage.
The best setup for ultimate drivability and reliability would be:
Oem disc
oem pp (you could likely re-use yours)
oem bearings
AP1 flywheel, combined with CDV removal.
If you used to have an ap1, the car will behave just like your old car and you will notice it instantly as you wont have the "rpm hang" that all ap2s have.
#3
Thanks for the response. Sorry I forgot, my old car was an 06 as well, never had the issues I'm having with this one, which is why I thought clutch. When I do replace it, I had planned on ap1 flywheel, CDV removal, and OEM everything else. Estimated time required for a rookie and a couple mechanic friends to replace? 6-8hours?
#5
#7
Billman, I'm just going to go with oem everything on this build with an ap1 flywheel and slave cylinder. Since I've never done this before, but I have a couple friends who have on a supra, camaro, and a friend whose done a civic or two, are there any special tools required above a couple sets of sockets, open face ratchets, a breaker bar, and torque wrench? Do you think this can be completed, correctly and carefully on a Saturday? Starting around 9am, I generally work 6 days per week and of course, my s2 is my daily so downtime sucks.
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#8
I just did my clutch and flywheel a couple weeks ago on my garage floor. No special tools required other than long extensions and swivel sockets for the upper starter bolt and upper starter bolts. If you are planning on doing this job over a weekend, I would reccomend getting extra parts just in case such as: release bearing guide, driveshaft bolts (people strip these sometimes) , rear main seal (in case yours is leaking). There is a link somewhere with the factory service procedure which is helpful for a first timer. It took me about 7 hours total by myself with hand tools. I had no experience working on the S2000 transmission before then...
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