Clutch Pedal Sticking / Notchy
#12
Had the chance to bleed the clutch fluid today, was very smooth for the first couple drives but started to stick very slightly, a lot better than before and not noticeable unless you purposely let the clutch out very very slowly. But with that said, it might get more and more noticeable over time and I don't think the real problem is dealt with.
If this was the issue, wouldn't there be noticeable noise due to severe galling between the bearings and guide tube?
I've had a few come through the shop with a similar symptom. They all had severe galling between the throw out bearing and the guide tube. new bearing and guide tube fixed it.
Also check the push rod on the slave cylinder, the nub can wear out. If you grind it down, make the end round again it might help. Thats worth a shot before you pull the trans.
Also check the push rod on the slave cylinder, the nub can wear out. If you grind it down, make the end round again it might help. Thats worth a shot before you pull the trans.
#14
#15
I had this exact problem, did same thing to no success. Then I greased the pivot point/joint/hinge of the fork that the slave rod pushes. The fork easily pops in and out of its seat. Greases both the seat and the rod. Popped it back in and no more stick. Try that!
Btw I had to spread the grease using a small stick (like a pencil) because my fingers did not fit through the opening
Btw I had to spread the grease using a small stick (like a pencil) because my fingers did not fit through the opening
#16
I had this exact problem, did same thing to no success. Then I greased the pivot point/joint/hinge of the fork that the slave rod pushes. The fork easily pops in and out of its seat. Greases both the seat and the rod. Popped it back in and no more stick. Try that!
Btw I had to spread the grease using a small stick (like a pencil) because my fingers did not fit through the opening
Btw I had to spread the grease using a small stick (like a pencil) because my fingers did not fit through the opening
If so, I've done it already and it didn't seem of much help.
#17
Registered User
I find the perfect solution for these type of situations is to go down to the local dragstrip and run the car until the clutch blows up and then take a good look at it. Hopefully along the way run a sub 14 second-quarter
#18
lol! Surprisingly, the clutch does feel smooth after a spirited drive, but stickiness comes back a few days later.
#19
had the exact same issue, no squeaking or anything, would stick down low, would be better after spirited driving.. but didnt last.
did the slave cylinder rod polish and grease but didnt help.
what did help was Billman's advice:
Fork tips need grease where they contact the TO bearing. Not easy to get at, but you can reach in there with a coat hanger and dab grease on each tip.
Unbolt slave and remove boot of course, then disengage fork and grease it.
this might not be a permanent solution. i had this done once, it was good for about a month or so then turned to crap again.
i had the mechanic do it again this time with high temp urea grease and it's been running smooth for about a month now. fingers crossed it stays like this.
i'd say try it and see how long it lasts. reading the forum it seems it works for good for some and temporarily for others.
still worth doing before dropping the transmission.
cost me 40 bucks at a mechanic but its a DIY if you have basic tools and a way to lift it.
good luck man!
Cristian
did the slave cylinder rod polish and grease but didnt help.
what did help was Billman's advice:
Fork tips need grease where they contact the TO bearing. Not easy to get at, but you can reach in there with a coat hanger and dab grease on each tip.
Unbolt slave and remove boot of course, then disengage fork and grease it.
this might not be a permanent solution. i had this done once, it was good for about a month or so then turned to crap again.
i had the mechanic do it again this time with high temp urea grease and it's been running smooth for about a month now. fingers crossed it stays like this.
i'd say try it and see how long it lasts. reading the forum it seems it works for good for some and temporarily for others.
still worth doing before dropping the transmission.
cost me 40 bucks at a mechanic but its a DIY if you have basic tools and a way to lift it.
good luck man!
Cristian
#20
Registered User
Are you guys talking about the push foot part the slave hits to disengage to clutch.
What part needs greasing here? Any pictures.
I have greased the inner part where the slave rod connects but nothing else. Do i remove the rubber outer part and then grease inside?
What part needs greasing here? Any pictures.
I have greased the inner part where the slave rod connects but nothing else. Do i remove the rubber outer part and then grease inside?