shittles

I had a new OEM clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing installed in January. Clutch engagement has been smooth until yesterday. Sitting in rush hour traffic yesterday, I noticed my clutch pedal required more effort to engage than normal. Once, I got out of the stop and go traffic and started moving engagement got easier.

I sprayed the clutch pedal spring last night with lubricant, as it would squeek while depressing the pedal. This helped depressing the pedal slightly.

This morning, I noticed the pedal still required slightly more effort to engage while driving (stop and go). Once, I got on the highway, it was normal again.

What could cause this?

Thanks,
Chris

xviper

First, try a clutch fluid bleed. You just never know. This may fix it.

One of the following is sticking:

1. The plunger in the master cylinder - would need new one to fix.
2. The plunger in the slave cylinder - would need new one to fix.
3. The throw out bearing area didn't get lubed up well when the install happened - will need to take the tranny off. May as well put a new TO bearing in but next time, lube it up really well. This seems to be an oversight of those who do the work. Can you get the people who did the clutch take a look at it. Maybe they'll fix their mistake if that's what it is. It's not a simple job to get at the TO bearing. It's like doing another clutch job.

shittles

xviper,

Thanks for the advice

While searching, I've found that this is fairly common if the release bearing fork needs lubrication.

I failed to say that the clutch pedal sticks about an inch from the floorboard, going down and coming back up

link to similar symptoms

I am going to pull the slave cylinder and grease the release bearing fork first. This procedure seems fairly simple. If it doesn't solve the problem, I will definitely take it back to the shop that installed my clutch and have them look at it.

Again, thanks xviper

Chris

xviper

You do the searchers proud.

Yeah, give that try. Worth the time and sure beats the alternative.

shittles

Thanks again xviper

shittles

"Actually, it's pretty easy.

1) Jack up/raise the car securely. It should be high enough so you can get under it.
2) Remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission.
3) Remove the rubber dust boot from the bell housing and remove the slave cylinder. Support the slave cylinder so that it does not hang from the hose.
4) Pull out the shift fork as far as possible. You will not be able to remove it, as the fork end is larger than the hole where the dust boot was.
5) Put very little high temp grease on the fork and on the roller pivot of the fork. I used Valvoline Syntech high temperature grease. I couldn't get my fingers in far enough, so I used a combination of an old knife and a piece of 10ga solid wire to apply/spread the grease.
6) Push the release fork back onto the release bearing. This will "pop" on and stay.
7) Put the slave cylinder back onto the bell housing, making sure the ball of it fits into the recess on the release fork. Replace the (2) 12mm bolts and tighten.
8) Lower the car and you are ready to go!

Whatever you do, DO NOT PUSH IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS REMOVED! "-txst's guide

^This did the trick! It took me approximately twenty minutes to do the job!!