When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
lol I completely agree. The buzzing in my car is really terrible. I’m going to get a video tomorrow and post it for you guys to hear.
I appreciate the input man! I’ve pretty much settled on going the ACT/OEM route next. How long it takes me to do this is the question. I could do it now but damn I feel like I’m throwing $1300 down the drain lol. Live and learn I guess. Like I said above, I’m gonna get a video of this buzzing and post it up tomorrow for your guys to see and hear for yourself.
I still love LHT and their work but I agree with you 100 percent that they tend to push inferior products. This clutch has not been the end all be all of clutches like they say. I’ve purchased hand made titanium pieces from them though and the craftsmanship is incredible. They upgraded the retainers and keepers on my car to the AP2, changed my clutch master cylinder, and just overall took really good care of my car while it was there. No extra miles were on it and it was cleaner when I picked it up than when I dropped it off with no extra scratches or dents. This is huge for me. I’ve had bad experiences in the past with shops working on my car and getting it back dirty or with extra damage that wasn’t there when I dropped off. Huge pet peeve of mine.
Im in Orlando about two hours from them but really don’t want to make the drive out there and wait 6+ months for them to install a clutch again so my options are limited. I don’t trust a Honda dealer to touch my car. Just for shits and giggles though, I called a local Honda dealer for a quote on a clutch change. They quoted $3500. I almost Immediately wanted to slap the shit outta him over the phone. Literally over double what any other shop would charge.
ive looked into doing it myself and it doesn’t look impossible. I have all the tools but changing a clutch on jack stands worries me lol
The KEY to doing this yourself is having a place to work quietly. Doing it on your back isn't too terrible. Although I do suggest you find a way to raise the car as much as possible, since you will lower the front subframe a few inches.
Not going to lie, there's a fair bit of force and cursing to get the transmission out and in, but it's not that heavy, ~90 lbs, totally manageable with a jack, some wood and some common sense about where the weight is.
I used ratchet straps and the rear subframe to help me pull the transmission out, and decided against doing the reverse for install because it's all dangling at the front.
Everything else is pretty straightforward, just take your time, be organized(lots of bolts and they go in specific places, and specific ways)
Using lots of Urea grease on sliding parts is a great idea, it's also a great idea to polish the transmission input shaft splines with it out, so that clutch disk slides like butter. Check the input shaft seal too, just in case since you're in there.
The prop shaft is easy to do if you have the right tool or an AP2. Another while you're in there, remove the lid, clean out all the old grease with mineral spirits, and repack with fresh CV joint grease. I like the Mobil 1 synthetic grease, but there's other options. Give the boots a nice spritz on the outside with some AT-205 to keep them nice and pliant. The Clutch fork boot, replace it or spray it down if it's in good shape.
Honda grease left, Lucas right, both can be used with confidence.
damn well that’s unnerving! Sigh..guess I’m gonna be $1300 more in the hole now lol...so just so I know...oem disc.. ACT HD pressure plate..OEM Nachi bearing...AP1 flywheel...oem pilot bearing..rear engine main seal...anything else I should be purchasing?
The KEY to doing this yourself is having a place to work quietly. Doing it on your back isn't too terrible. Although I do suggest you find a way to raise the car as much as possible, since you will lower the front subframe a few inches.
Not going to lie, there's a fair bit of force and cursing to get the transmission out and in, but it's not that heavy, ~90 lbs, totally manageable with a jack, some wood and some common sense about where the weight is.
I used ratchet straps and the rear subframe to help me pull the transmission out, and decided against doing the reverse for install because it's all dangling at the front.
Everything else is pretty straightforward, just take your time, be organized(lots of bolts and they go in specific places, and specific ways)
Using lots of Urea grease on sliding parts is a great idea, it's also a great idea to polish the transmission input shaft splines with it out, so that clutch disk slides like butter. Check the input shaft seal too, just in case since you're in there.
The prop shaft is easy to do if you have the right tool or an AP2. Another while you're in there, remove the lid, clean out all the old grease with mineral spirits, and repack with fresh CV joint grease. I like the Mobil 1 synthetic grease, but there's other options. Give the boots a nice spritz on the outside with some AT-205 to keep them nice and pliant. The Clutch fork boot, replace it or spray it down if it's in good shape.
Honda grease left, Lucas right, both can be used with confidence.
nice appreciate the info! One good thing about LHT replacing my clutch last year and only having about 1000 miles on the car since, is that they replaced a lot of that stuff so it’s essentially new. The slave dust boot and oem guide/slide are brand new so I don’t believe I need to replace again. I have a brand new tub of Honda urea grease also so I would be using that liberally if I do it myself. I know a couple people with lifts so hopefully I can convince one of them to let me use it instead of doing this on jack stands.
As far as I know LHT installs the disk with the enclosed springs. And LHT has done enough clutch jobs to where it's like breathing for them, so I doubt there was anything done incorrectly during install. These clutches still have been known to fail though, I think LHT even did a video on it with Obsessed Garage's CR.
I'm not understanding why anyone would deviate from the winning ACT/OEM combo at this point. It's really something LHT needs to offer.
Because not everyone is at a power level compatible with that combo without potentially slipping during hard driving.
I've rebuilt several iron engines and pulled a few transmissions off other vehicles in my youth. But, those days are behind me. I'll do a lot of work on my S even now. But, pulling off the transmission, or pulling out the motor, is where I draw the line. I am 100% sure it can be done by any decent home mechanic. But.I think I would be throwing wrenches at the walls before it was done.
I have the same issue with this clutch (FX350) in my LHT turbo build. I dont enjoy driving the car, because of how bad the buzzing is and how often it occurs. It over powers my berk headerback. So, I am thinking about switching to oem disk, act pp, ap1 flywheel for my ap2. Sucks I have to drop another $1k to aid this issue.
I have the same issue with this clutch (FX350) in my LHT turbo build. I dont enjoy driving the car, because of how bad the buzzing is and how often it occurs. It over powers my berk headerback. So, I am thinking about switching to oem disk, act pp, ap1 flywheel for my ap2. Sucks I have to drop another $1k to aid this issue.
Sorry to hear this. The OEM disk will most likely solve the buzzing issue. If you had been on this site for more than a few years, you'd have read about the habitual aftermarket clutch disc issues.
There are aftermarket parts problems which seem to be unique to the S2000.
03-02-2021, 10:02 AM
