Clutch issues
#1
Clutch issues
Hey guys,
I was out in my AP1 yesterday and noticed that the clutch feels weird, it was operational until the last hour. The clutch bite dropped to nearly the end (when the clutch pedal is fully pressed) and shifting gears started to be harder and harder. When I reached home I couldn't even shift to first gear from neutral, the car starting moving when I tried forcing the shifter into 1st gear while the clutch pedal is fully pressed. From my basic knowledge, I had a doubt that the master cylinder is the problem here, and when i had a look, it was leaking black mud. Picture attached.
I need advice here as I was about to order many parts in order to track my car safely, so should I replace the Master cylinder only or should I also replace the slave cylinder? Any aftermarket parts that would enhance the durability and reliability for a track/race car? Shoot some suggestions please. Thanks
I was out in my AP1 yesterday and noticed that the clutch feels weird, it was operational until the last hour. The clutch bite dropped to nearly the end (when the clutch pedal is fully pressed) and shifting gears started to be harder and harder. When I reached home I couldn't even shift to first gear from neutral, the car starting moving when I tried forcing the shifter into 1st gear while the clutch pedal is fully pressed. From my basic knowledge, I had a doubt that the master cylinder is the problem here, and when i had a look, it was leaking black mud. Picture attached.
I need advice here as I was about to order many parts in order to track my car safely, so should I replace the Master cylinder only or should I also replace the slave cylinder? Any aftermarket parts that would enhance the durability and reliability for a track/race car? Shoot some suggestions please. Thanks
#2
Moderator
Clean out the resovior spotless with paper towels, then refill with brake fluid.
Do so in another 1000 miles, then 5k there after.
Chances of the leak stopping is over 90%.
Do so in another 1000 miles, then 5k there after.
Chances of the leak stopping is over 90%.
#3
In case its not obvious, initially use an automotive turkey baster to suck up as much of the old fluid as possible, before you get the last of it with the paper towels.
Be careful not to drip any of the fluid onto painted surfaces, it will eat paint.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
Be careful not to drip any of the fluid onto painted surfaces, it will eat paint.
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
#4
Interesting technique for clutch fluid. Do you do this every 5k miles? Or, just drain/refill it 3x (1st time, then 1k, then 5k)?
#5
Originally Posted by Billman250' timestamp='1448635685' post='23813747
Clean out the resovior spotless with paper towels, then refill with brake fluid.
Do so in another 1000 miles, then 5k there after.
Chances of the leak stopping is over 90%.
Do so in another 1000 miles, then 5k there after.
Chances of the leak stopping is over 90%.
#6
Cool. Sounds easy enough - empty/refill clutch reservoir every 5k. As for any bubbles that may accumulate in the lines over time, then maybe an additional step [brick/pin clutch pedal overnight] would rid of any possible future bubbles. ..this process sounds much easier than bleeding the clutch fluid (getting a clear tube/hose staying put on that tiny nipple/bleed-screw can be a pain).
This also makes me really wonder if it would work for the brakes too - empty/refill brake MC reservoir every 5k, then brick/pin brake pedal overnight..?
This also makes me really wonder if it would work for the brakes too - empty/refill brake MC reservoir every 5k, then brick/pin brake pedal overnight..?
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