Clutch install questions
11-05-2017, 07:48 PM
#1
Clutch install questions
Got two question:
1.after I lowered the subframe and ready to loose those 2 top bolts from the tranny bellhousing, I realized the previous owner did not install them at all! Later when I reinstall the transmission I figured the 2x17mm short bolts(newly bought) kept spinning which meant the threads were damaged. Can I leave them like that or need to tap the threads from 12mm to bigger bore?
2. I realized I forgot to install the flywheel washer. Remembered billman mentioned without washer the crank and flywheel would be damaged. How come? Since many other motors don't have washers for the flywheel?
Thank you very much for any comments and suggestions!
Adam
1.after I lowered the subframe and ready to loose those 2 top bolts from the tranny bellhousing, I realized the previous owner did not install them at all! Later when I reinstall the transmission I figured the 2x17mm short bolts(newly bought) kept spinning which meant the threads were damaged. Can I leave them like that or need to tap the threads from 12mm to bigger bore?
2. I realized I forgot to install the flywheel washer. Remembered billman mentioned without washer the crank and flywheel would be damaged. How come? Since many other motors don't have washers for the flywheel?
Thank you very much for any comments and suggestions!
Adam
11-06-2017, 07:24 AM
#2
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Well...you've been driving around with those bolts missing for a while now. So...
Idk if it matters what anyone on this site thinks will be OK. Honda put those bolts and the flywheel washer there for a very valid reason.
I would fix the issues.
Idk if it matters what anyone on this site thinks will be OK. Honda put those bolts and the flywheel washer there for a very valid reason.
I would fix the issues.
11-06-2017, 07:32 AM
#3
Moderator
Without the 8 hole flywheel washer, the bolts will bottom out in the crankshaft, distorting the crank. In addition, the flywheel will not be fully clamped down, due to bottoming of the bolts.
Severe engine damage will result without the washer.
Severe engine damage will result without the washer.
11-06-2017, 07:33 AM
#4
Now it's a quesiton for those two bolts. Would it possible that the shop did the clutch job before used 1/2 inch bolts instead of M12 bolts? I don't think I want to tap to be M14 bolts but would like to try 1/2" bolt first?
11-06-2017, 07:37 AM
#5
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Do the bolts thread into the block or the trans?
You sure you have the right bolts?
When the trans is off, can you check the depth and the thread condition?
I suppose a 1/2" bolt would work. Make sure you buy a Grade 8 flange bolt (which is the equivalent of the C10.9 flange bolt used in the original assembly).
You sure you have the right bolts?
When the trans is off, can you check the depth and the thread condition?
I suppose a 1/2" bolt would work. Make sure you buy a Grade 8 flange bolt (which is the equivalent of the C10.9 flange bolt used in the original assembly).
11-06-2017, 07:38 AM
#6
Thank you Billman that explains. Did not realize the bolts are long enough to punch the crankshaft, otherwise it will have oil leak? Only thing I feel was, when I torque these bolts to be 94 ft/lbs, I don't feel much tight compared to when I took them out using an IR air wrench which I guess at least 150+ ft/lbs with rust and aged bolts. I did use new flywheel bolts hopefully won't wear them out during the process again.
11-06-2017, 07:43 AM
#7
Do the bolts thread into the block or the trans?
You sure you have the right bolts?
When the trans is off, can you check the depth and the thread condition?
I suppose a 1/2" bolt would work. Make sure you buy a Grade 8 flange bolt (which is the equivalent of the C10.9 flange bolt used in the original assembly).
You sure you have the right bolts?
When the trans is off, can you check the depth and the thread condition?
I suppose a 1/2" bolt would work. Make sure you buy a Grade 8 flange bolt (which is the equivalent of the C10.9 flange bolt used in the original assembly).
I've bought brand new bolts from dealer which won't be wrong. M12x65 bolts thread into engine block and M12x80 bolts thread into transmission.
I was wondering in some busy repair shops, was it common to mix-use imperial and metric bolts?
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11-06-2017, 07:56 AM
#8
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Top bolts are the ones thread into the block,the shorter ones.
I've bought brand new bolts from dealer which won't be wrong. M12x65 bolts thread into engine block and M12x80 bolts thread into transmission.
I was wondering in some busy repair shops, was it common to mix-use imperial and metric bolts?
I've bought brand new bolts from dealer which won't be wrong. M12x65 bolts thread into engine block and M12x80 bolts thread into transmission.
I was wondering in some busy repair shops, was it common to mix-use imperial and metric bolts?
M12x1.25 is not compatible with 1/2x__ thread.
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lpcome (11-06-2017)
11-06-2017, 08:02 AM
#9
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Thank you Billman that explains. Did not realize the bolts are long enough to punch the crankshaft, otherwise it will have oil leak? Only thing I feel was, when I torque these bolts to be 94 ft/lbs, I don't feel much tight compared to when I took them out using an IR air wrench which I guess at least 150+ ft/lbs with rust and aged bolts. I did use new flywheel bolts hopefully won't wear them out during the process again.
The crank won't leak oil or get punched thru.
The bolt will bottom out in the crankshaft hole. The flywheel will be loose.
