Clutch Help
#11
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Awesome, thanks for the detail.
When you say "Pull the fork down out of its retaining clip." - does that mean the fork will completely pull out of the transmission?
Thanks again,
Colin
When you say "Pull the fork down out of its retaining clip." - does that mean the fork will completely pull out of the transmission?
Thanks again,
Colin
#12
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No worries man! I was soo mad after I did my clutch and it was not smooth. I thought I was going to have to do it over again so I feel your pain!
It will drop a few inches but not come out, it is too wide to completely come out of the housing.
Jacob
It will drop a few inches but not come out, it is too wide to completely come out of the housing.
Jacob
#13
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Hey,
So I put the car on one stand, got under it, and the bolts for the slave are freakin tight. I'm guessing the dealer must have pulled it off and put it back on a lot tighter than it was. They cracked the rubber housing while they were at it, too :/
Anyway, I'm going to try and finish this up tomorrow. I'm having a friend come over that's done a bit more car work than me, so hopefully he'll help.
I have the car jacked from the front left, is that correct? Also, looking at the hole in the transmission, I can't imagine how I'm going to get grease on the fork. Hopefully once I get the slave off and completely pull away the housing it will be more clear. I really wish I could do this standing up because it looks like it would be a thousand times easier.
Thanks again, I'll post back late tomorrow.
e39m5
So I put the car on one stand, got under it, and the bolts for the slave are freakin tight. I'm guessing the dealer must have pulled it off and put it back on a lot tighter than it was. They cracked the rubber housing while they were at it, too :/
Anyway, I'm going to try and finish this up tomorrow. I'm having a friend come over that's done a bit more car work than me, so hopefully he'll help.
I have the car jacked from the front left, is that correct? Also, looking at the hole in the transmission, I can't imagine how I'm going to get grease on the fork. Hopefully once I get the slave off and completely pull away the housing it will be more clear. I really wish I could do this standing up because it looks like it would be a thousand times easier.
Thanks again, I'll post back late tomorrow.
e39m5
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I used the front left as well. The bolts for me we awkward to get off due to the angle of them relative to my arms. Hopefully you can get them off!!!
Once you get the slave off and the fork pulled down it becomes clearer as to what you need to grease and how you are going to get grease on it. A lift would make this job way easier!!!!
Good luck,
Jacob
Once you get the slave off and the fork pulled down it becomes clearer as to what you need to grease and how you are going to get grease on it. A lift would make this job way easier!!!!
Good luck,
Jacob
#15
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Problems...
Soo after I pulled the slave off and lubed up the fork, I thought it would be a good idea to push the clutch down and see if the slave was operating smoothly. It seemed fine, so I pushed the pin back with my hands as far as I could and got ready to reset the slave. When I lined up the bolts, the pin was still extended well past the fork.
Sooo, I figured there was too much pressure in the line which made it impossible to push back. I opened the bleeder and tried to push more, but it still wouldn't budge. Then I unbolted the hose and pulled the slave out from under the car completely, but it still won't budge.
I'm not sure if this means the slave was broken, or if it means I broke it when I pushed in the clutch, but as far as I can tell there's no way I'm getting that pin to push in any further. I'm going to go back to the Honda dealer tomorrow and see what they say/pick up a new one.
Anyone have ideas here?
Thanks again,
e39m5
Soo after I pulled the slave off and lubed up the fork, I thought it would be a good idea to push the clutch down and see if the slave was operating smoothly. It seemed fine, so I pushed the pin back with my hands as far as I could and got ready to reset the slave. When I lined up the bolts, the pin was still extended well past the fork.
Sooo, I figured there was too much pressure in the line which made it impossible to push back. I opened the bleeder and tried to push more, but it still wouldn't budge. Then I unbolted the hose and pulled the slave out from under the car completely, but it still won't budge.
I'm not sure if this means the slave was broken, or if it means I broke it when I pushed in the clutch, but as far as I can tell there's no way I'm getting that pin to push in any further. I'm going to go back to the Honda dealer tomorrow and see what they say/pick up a new one.
Anyone have ideas here?
Thanks again,
e39m5
#16
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Eek. You should have just pulled the top off of the MC reservoir. Now that you've cracked the bleeder you may need to bleed the system.
I've never overextended my slave cylinder so I'd presume it may be useful to *carefully* use a c-clamp (after removing the MC cover) to compress the slave rod. I've been able to push the rod in by hand on other cars, but have never attempted to do so without first removing the MC cover. Think of using a c-clamp the same way you'd do a brake job. Just DON'T FORCE IT.
I've never overextended my slave cylinder so I'd presume it may be useful to *carefully* use a c-clamp (after removing the MC cover) to compress the slave rod. I've been able to push the rod in by hand on other cars, but have never attempted to do so without first removing the MC cover. Think of using a c-clamp the same way you'd do a brake job. Just DON'T FORCE IT.
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It is possible that the piston was over extended and about to fall out of the cylinder and is slightly cocked to one side and is not allowing it to retract. If you pull the rubber boot off the slave where the rod goes through you can see the piston.
Good luck!
Jacob
Good luck!
Jacob
#18
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Thanks everyone for your help, my clutch is now running smoothly =D
That morning I called the Honda dealers and parts shops in my area, and nobody had anything in stock :/. Eventually I started playing with the "broken" slave and pulled off the rubber cover. I couldn't figure out why it was stuck, and when I reassembled it everything seemed to be working fine.
So, I tossed it back on the car, bought some new brake fluid and bled the system. Initially it shocked me how loose/smooth the clutch was, but im 99% sure I got all the air out of the line. I've gotten used to it at this point, and I think it's ok. (It might be important to note that I learned stick on an e39m5, so just about everything feels loose).
I'm guessing the lube job is what ultimately fixed the problem. As everyone guessed, it was pretty dry at the contact and pivot points.
Also, I'm regularly checking the clutch fluid in case reassembling the slave caused some leaking.
I think that's about everything I need to mention. Thanks again for all your help, I never could have pulled this off without s2ki. What Honda quoted at $900 I seem to have fixed for about $10.
e39m5
That morning I called the Honda dealers and parts shops in my area, and nobody had anything in stock :/. Eventually I started playing with the "broken" slave and pulled off the rubber cover. I couldn't figure out why it was stuck, and when I reassembled it everything seemed to be working fine.
So, I tossed it back on the car, bought some new brake fluid and bled the system. Initially it shocked me how loose/smooth the clutch was, but im 99% sure I got all the air out of the line. I've gotten used to it at this point, and I think it's ok. (It might be important to note that I learned stick on an e39m5, so just about everything feels loose).
I'm guessing the lube job is what ultimately fixed the problem. As everyone guessed, it was pretty dry at the contact and pivot points.
Also, I'm regularly checking the clutch fluid in case reassembling the slave caused some leaking.
I think that's about everything I need to mention. Thanks again for all your help, I never could have pulled this off without s2ki. What Honda quoted at $900 I seem to have fixed for about $10.
e39m5
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