e39m5

In a 10 minute drive, my clutch can switch from smooth and easy to sticky and stiff and back to smooth and easy. When it's sticky, it gets stuck about halfway down but when I go past that point it seems to lose all resistance until I release and push down again.

The car shifts fine so it's not a big deal, but what could this be? The clutch is new (<3000 miles), and I've just been driving with it hoping it would work itself out, but no luck. Do you think bleeding the clutch fluid would solve it? Is there anything else it could possibly be?

Thanks

drewmob

Congrats on the new clutch. What brand/series did you go with? Did you DIY or take it to a shop? A problem this soon after installation is a bit of a red flag so if a shop did it, take it back and make them fix it.

Was the bleeder opened at any time during the install? If not, you shouldn't need a bleed.

I'd start with a visual inspection of the slave cylinder to make sure it is operating & aligned properly. Push the piston all the way back into the housing and watch while someone pushes the pedal a few times. In my experience the pedal "sticking" half way down is indicative of a lack of pressure/contact between the clutch fork and slave cylinder. I don't think you can really screw up the fork installation, so my money is on a problem with the slave.

Let us know if the cylinder appears to be operating properly. It is a super-cheap part if it needs replacing. The clutch MC is too, but this doesn't sound like the issue to me. Usually when the MC goes you have a hard time getting out of gear after not shifting for several miles.

Good luck & keep us posted.

e39m5

Thanks for the response.

Sorry, I'm completely new to clutch maintenance. What am I looking for? I think I'll be able to figure out where the cylinder is with some searching, but if you'd like to post that as well I wouldn't complain.

If I see something operating improperly, should I just go buy a new cylinder? Or should I try and fix it?

I'm leaving work now so I'll be playing with it in about an hour and a half.

Thanks again,
e39m5

j_raquet

I had the same issue with mine. It ended up being when I replaced my clutch I forgot to put some grease on the tips of the throw out fork where it touches the bearing. I just took the slave off and pulled the fork down and tried to get some grease on the tips with a long screwdriver and then put it all back together. Also check that there is adequate lubrication on the slave cylinder piston where it pivots as well. After I greased them up it felt just like it should.

Hope it helps,
Jacob

terahertz

i agree on the clutch fork grease. mine was exactly like that a year ago. i greased it and it went away, until last week lol.

e39m5

I put the car on stands last night, unbolted the slave, and it really didn't look like there was a problem. I tried to grease it up anyway, but the stickiness didn't go away.

The Honda dealer by me is having a free diagnosis special on cars older than 2001, so I brought it over there this morning. They found that the fork isn't moving smoothly, and they want to drop and open the transmission to figure out what's wrong. It's $900 plus parts and I'd rather not spend that.

Do you think lubing up the fork without dropping the transmission will get this running OK? What kind of grease should I put on it? Can I just spray WD40 in?

I'm a little afraid the grease will get on the friction material and my car won't be drivable...is that a valid concern?

Thanks for all your help,
e39m5

drewmob

DO NOT use WD-40 but DO throw some grease at the problem first. I use Lucas Red n' Tacky for stuff like that. I like the idea of using a long screwdriver to get some grease inside the bell housing if you can't get in there with a grease gun. A 'lube job may very well do the trick.

j_raquet

I would pull it apart again and use a flashlight and inspect the contact points. Use a high temp grease that is very thick like drewmob reccommended. I used a high temp wheel bearing grease just because thats what I had lying around. Before I greased mine I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder, which was not needed.




On the clutch release fork (4) I greased the tips of the fork, the pivot pin and the seat where the slave cylinder touches it. My pivot pin was bone dry with a hint of rust dust on it.

My clutch was horrible almost to the point where I couldnt drive it. My leg would get tired from the excess strain. It would stick half way down and in the sticky part was where the engagement point was so it was a challenge to drive.

A flashlight and a long flat screwdriver are your friends!

Jacob

e39m5

Wow thanks everyone.

Do I have to remove the housing that covers where the slave cylinder and fork meet? If so, how is it removed?

Thanks again
e39m5

j_raquet

Yes you have to remove the boot. These are the steps I used:

1. Put car on jack stands.

2. Remove slave cylinder and hang with a wire or cord so it doesnt dangle by the hose.

3. Grab hold of rubber boot and pull it out with a tug. Be careful with the edges as they can tear where it snaps in around the housing. I squeezed the middle and pulled.

4. Pull the fork down out of its retaining clip.

5. Inspect all the contact points for any wear or lack of grease.

6. Get out your favorite high temp grease and a long screw driver and try to lube up all the contact points.

7. Once you have all the areas greased push the fork back into its retaining clip.

8. Inspect the rod that comes out of the slave cylinder for any pitting or scoring. If there is you can polish them out with fine grit sand paper.

9. Grease up the tip of the fork that is sticking out of the housing.

10. Snap in the rubber boot cover

11. Reinstall the slave cylinder making sure the rod is seated in the fork.

12. Lower car and test it out!

Hopefully this will help you and get your clutch feeling better

Jacob