Clutch has way too much freeplay
#1
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Clutch has way too much freeplay
I've replaced the clutch fluid and bled it but I think it might be too late for my master cylinder. It's been leaking pretty fast lately. I'm still kinda new to the S2K and it's problems so I only just got around to changing the fluid. I have about 1/2 the pedal's travel distance of freeplay. I can still get into gear and shift but there is grinding sometimes. Sometimes shifting is smooth as can be and other times it grinds and feels awful.
I tried adjusting the freeplay, but after I loosened the nut I really wasn't able to spin the rod at all, it was basically stuck. Looking at my slave cylinder it seems to be leaking.
Here's a picture. I'm looking for opinions, replace the master cylinder? Repair it? Where do I find the cylinder/rebuild kit? Thanks.
I tried adjusting the freeplay, but after I loosened the nut I really wasn't able to spin the rod at all, it was basically stuck. Looking at my slave cylinder it seems to be leaking.
Here's a picture. I'm looking for opinions, replace the master cylinder? Repair it? Where do I find the cylinder/rebuild kit? Thanks.
#2
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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You probably still have air in the system.
Try just pumping the pedal a million times to see if the air works its way out and freeplay returns closer to normal.
If not, try a 1 man bleed.
Your MC does not appear to be leaking at the pedal. Is the fluid leaking somewhere else?
What kind of clutch is in the car?
Try just pumping the pedal a million times to see if the air works its way out and freeplay returns closer to normal.
If not, try a 1 man bleed.
Your MC does not appear to be leaking at the pedal. Is the fluid leaking somewhere else?
What kind of clutch is in the car?
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windhund116 (09-11-2024)
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
You probably still have air in the system.
Try just pumping the pedal a million times to see if the air works its way out and freeplay returns closer to normal.
If not, try a 1 man bleed.
Your MC does not appear to be leaking at the pedal. Is the fluid leaking somewhere else?
What kind of clutch is in the car?
Try just pumping the pedal a million times to see if the air works its way out and freeplay returns closer to normal.
If not, try a 1 man bleed.
Your MC does not appear to be leaking at the pedal. Is the fluid leaking somewhere else?
What kind of clutch is in the car?
The MC has a bunch of reddish gunk if you can see in the picture. Not sure if that's normal or not.
The car is stock. It's an AP1.
#4
#5
Registered User
If you're losing fluid you have a leak somewhere. You need to fix that before you do anything else.
Doesn't look like the master is leaking. There would be fluid dripping out. That red stuff is grease and it's supposed to be there.
Doesn't look like the master is leaking. There would be fluid dripping out. That red stuff is grease and it's supposed to be there.
#6
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Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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To be more correct, I should call it a one person bleed procedure.
Usually, a bleed requires 2 people. One to pump the pedal and the other to operate the valve.
Its error prone and inefficient.
The one person bleed only requires 1 person.
I recommend using a bottle which has some brake fluid in it, and a vacuum line to connect it to your bleeder.
Then you (or any one person) would just open the bleed valve and pump the clutch and refill the reservoir until you're satisfied with the bleed. Then close the valve. No need to open/close the valve several times.
You can youtube it.
A leaky master cylinder will have a puddle and/or droplets of black clutch fluid residue all around if. Yours does not appear to have that.
Has your master cylinder been replaced? If so with what brand and type? If someone has replaced it with an aftermarket one.....you can fast forward any diagnosis to end up at "I need a new master cylinder".
Once you've done enough diagnosis to determine you do need a new master cylinder, you need to buy one from a Honda dealer. An aftermarket one will fail very quickly. Use hondaautomotiveparts.com or any number of dealer sites.
As far as the question about the clutch goes...
Your car can be stock, but someone may have replaced your clutch an aftermarket unit which may have failed, or will fail shortly. Has your clutch ever been replaced? If so, with what brand or type? If its aftermarket, you need to budget for a new clutch and associated parts, which you source through a Honda dealer.
Usually, a bleed requires 2 people. One to pump the pedal and the other to operate the valve.
Its error prone and inefficient.
The one person bleed only requires 1 person.
I recommend using a bottle which has some brake fluid in it, and a vacuum line to connect it to your bleeder.
Then you (or any one person) would just open the bleed valve and pump the clutch and refill the reservoir until you're satisfied with the bleed. Then close the valve. No need to open/close the valve several times.
You can youtube it.
A leaky master cylinder will have a puddle and/or droplets of black clutch fluid residue all around if. Yours does not appear to have that.
Has your master cylinder been replaced? If so with what brand and type? If someone has replaced it with an aftermarket one.....you can fast forward any diagnosis to end up at "I need a new master cylinder".
Once you've done enough diagnosis to determine you do need a new master cylinder, you need to buy one from a Honda dealer. An aftermarket one will fail very quickly. Use hondaautomotiveparts.com or any number of dealer sites.
As far as the question about the clutch goes...
Your car can be stock, but someone may have replaced your clutch an aftermarket unit which may have failed, or will fail shortly. Has your clutch ever been replaced? If so, with what brand or type? If its aftermarket, you need to budget for a new clutch and associated parts, which you source through a Honda dealer.
Last edited by B serious; 09-11-2024 at 11:02 AM.
#7
Free play adjustments are with a good pedal,not a band aid adjustment<beware>crank thrust bearing =fcuk engine.<avoid>
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#8
How to adjust clutch:
With that much rust on back of mc, my guess is its aftermarket, and like B says, would mean its junk. Replace with real Honda part.
If a po did that, they probably also used aftermarket if they happened to replace clutch itself. Like B says, its even junkier junk, and is going to fail. Inevitable. Typical is around 20k miles. I got around 30k on ebay one the p,po put in. So not idea how many miles on it total. But it did fail, same way they all do. Dropped spring. Jambs up clutch.
Anytime shifting is difficult or consistent grinds, first suspect always clutch not fully disengaging. A common issue on these cars. Usua some combo of air and contaminated fluid, as well as adjustment. Just doing those fixes majority of issues.
Once it is sorted, plan to do clutch reservoir fluid swap everyone oil change. Siphon old, wipe clean inside (lint free cloth!), pour fresh. This will keep fluid in entire system clean for almost forever.
With that much rust on back of mc, my guess is its aftermarket, and like B says, would mean its junk. Replace with real Honda part.
If a po did that, they probably also used aftermarket if they happened to replace clutch itself. Like B says, its even junkier junk, and is going to fail. Inevitable. Typical is around 20k miles. I got around 30k on ebay one the p,po put in. So not idea how many miles on it total. But it did fail, same way they all do. Dropped spring. Jambs up clutch.
Anytime shifting is difficult or consistent grinds, first suspect always clutch not fully disengaging. A common issue on these cars. Usua some combo of air and contaminated fluid, as well as adjustment. Just doing those fixes majority of issues.
Once it is sorted, plan to do clutch reservoir fluid swap everyone oil change. Siphon old, wipe clean inside (lint free cloth!), pour fresh. This will keep fluid in entire system clean for almost forever.
#9
Registered User
With that much rust on back of mc, my guess is its aftermarket, and like B says, would mean its junk. Replace with real Honda part.
If a po did that, they probably also used aftermarket if they happened to replace clutch itself. Like B says, its even junkier junk, and is going to fail. Inevitable. Typical is around 20k miles. I got around 30k on ebay one the p,po put in. So not idea how many miles on it total. But it did fail, same way they all do. Dropped spring. Jambs up clutch.
If a po did that, they probably also used aftermarket if they happened to replace clutch itself. Like B says, its even junkier junk, and is going to fail. Inevitable. Typical is around 20k miles. I got around 30k on ebay one the p,po put in. So not idea how many miles on it total. But it did fail, same way they all do. Dropped spring. Jambs up clutch.
Again, the OP's first step must be finding the source of their fluid leak.
#10
Maybe its just the rod that is rusted. Difficult to see on my phone.
I also can't see Nissin. But now that you point it out, I see something is
there, agree its probably oem.