s2k_9000rpm

it was taken back and then adjusted. feels fine to me. and other mechanics and friends have yet to say anything about it.

Napoleon Dynamite

I have a MY 01 with only 21k miles , and a very high friction point. After reading some of these threads, I took xviper's advice and changed out the clutch fluid. I didnt' really notice an improvement right after completeing the procedure, but by the end of the day, the friction point was definitely lower. Also, the clutch pedal operates a lot smoother now. Just be careful when filling the fluid reservoire (it fills up very fast!).

xviper

Once the friction point has "settled" after your fluid change, you can now give due consideration to adjusting the pedal rod. I'm tending to think that after you have operated the clutch pedal through about a dozen gear changes, it's "settled" and the friction point shouldn't change much anymore.

Gernby

Maybe we are not considering the same things regarding "free play" in the con rod. There is free play built into the master cylinder. I think that there should be considerably more than 0 free play there. If not, then you will not be able to notice a change that may reduce clamping force. You defintely don't want ANY pressure on the slave cylinder when the pedal is fully extended. I think that about 1" of free play in the pedal before you feel the master / slave cylinder actually engage is about perfect.

Billman250

Maybe I can put this differently....Even if you adjusted the rod to actually start pushing the master in, say 1/16 inch, there would still be an open fluid passage between the slave down below, and the resovior. There would be no pressure on the T/O bearing.

When the master piston start moving in, the fluid is being pushed into the master res, until the rubber piston crosses the tiny hole and starts building pressure.

I've got about 170 s2k's running around with zero freeplay. They love the clutch action, and the shifting has never been better.

The key of the zero freeplay is: to get max disengagement. Any other setting will reduce this. With the inherent gear grind of the s2k, full disengagement will virtually eliminate it. I've cured quite a few gear grinds in this fashon.

All I can say is try it. I'll bet you will like it...

Gernby

We are talking about the same thing. The "free play" that I'm talking about IS the open fluid passage that you are talking about.

spitfirezip100

Hello,

I recently bought a brand new used 2006 s2k with 22k miles. I'm comming from a 2002 wrx which I loved to death, literally, and have been driving stick for 7 years now. I know my clutch isn't slipping, I know the symptoms of a slipping clutch, however it seems like my clutch pedal friction point is abnormally high.

There is also probably about 1" of freeplay in the clutch pedal before it even starts actually engaging the master cylinder.

I just purchased a factory service manual on ebay for 50$, however it wont be arriving for a week or so.

Reading the posts about changing the fluid/bleeding the lines sounds good to me. I also would like to adjust the clutch pedal mechanism to get rid of this freeplay in the pedal. Could anyone provide me with instructions on how to get this done?


I have ATE super blue fluid which I used on my wrx for track events/daily driving etc. and I'm assuming that this would work as well in the S?



I usually do all my own work on my car and have a fair amount of mechanical ability but I don't have a manual for my new S and I've never owned a honda before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.



and although I'm sure you guys know, I just wanted to say that although I haven't had it for long, the S is in my eyes the "perfect" car. I can't get over how high the potential and ability of this car is.

Tjs S2k

so where should be your engage point? Im replacing my Clutch Master Cylinder this weekend and I want to know where to adjust it to. Basically hardly any freeplay?

spitfirezip100

I am not sure, but my engagement point is almost at the top of the throw of the clutch pedal. I dont think it should be this high, and there probably shouldn't be a lot of pedal freeplay.

I read that there is a bolt that is used to adjust the clutch mechanism near the fire wall or something like that.

Not sure how to bleed the thing though. I guess it would be similiar to bleeding brake lines? Don't know if there is a bleeder valve or something like that.


Anyone??

Tjs S2k

Identical to bleeding brakes. The bleeder valve is on the transmission , drivers side. You will see the bleeder valve on the slave clyinder down there. Same thing , just pump up the clutch , Then have them hold it and bleed it out with a wrench. Keep doing that until you get all the air out